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Cabinet Customization

Design And Build A Cabinet Door Panel
George Ayars, Delphi Expert

Click here to download tip sheet in pdf format

If you’ve never made a stained glass project before, you’ll probably want to develop your skills on a test project before you start cutting apart any cabinets. While the panel explained here is not that difficult for a beginner, your expertise will definitely increase with practice. These steps explain how to create a custom-sized pattern and install a finished piece. Refer to the book “Stained Glass Basics” (item # 6405) or the video “Stained Glass Made Easy” (item # 6149V) for glass construction methods.

CABINET DOOR CONSTRUCTION Cabinet doors typically range between 10" and 13" wide and 20" and 25" high; the project pictured here is 7½" x 12". Most consist of a four piece frame around a raised wood center panel. The center panel is permanent, but can be easily removed by an experienced woodworker using a router to cut away the inner lip of the frame on the back side. What’s left looks like a picture frame that your glass panel will set into from the back and be secured with clips or silicone adhesive.

MEASURE YOUR PANEL SIZE Carefully measure the opening from BOTH the front and back. The front side, called the “view” is what you see from outside the cabinet. The inside measurement, called the “hole” is the full size of the panel, and is usually ½” to 1” larger than the view.

PICK A CLUSTER The cluster you choose should be at least 2” smaller than the background area. For best results, pick one that’s similar in proportion to the panel. For example, if the panel is 13” x 25”, the cluster should be about twice as long as it is wide; an 8” x 16” or 10” x 22” cluster would work well. For this project we used a 5” x 7” cluster in a 7½” x 12” panel.

ADD A BORDER Borders are optional, but come in handy for adding a bit of additional color or a different texture. This creates a transition from the background to the frame. A border also helps reduce the space around a smaller cluster. You can adjust our project to fit your cabinet by enlarging the background, adding a border, or both. Borders can be any width, but in general, use a 1½” border for a panel 10”-14” wide, and a 2” border for a panel 14” or wider.

VISIBILITY Make sure your glass choice is appropriate – you’ll want colors to compliment the room, as well as considering what’s going inside your cabinet. Bevels and light textured glass are a great way to show off attractive dishes, but you probably want to use opalescent glass to hide boxes or canned goods.

DRAW YOUR PATTERN

1. Measure out the hole size of your panel, then calculate the “glass size”. We suggest using 3/8” FH lead came to “frame” your glass piece, which will use up ½” of the panel’s “hole”. Subtract this ½” from the hole size to get your “glass size.” This is the actual size of the glass panel you will build.

2. Draw a full size rectangle on graph paper that matches your glass size. Divide the length and width in half to create center lines.

3. Lay out the cluster in the center, and draw around it.

4. Add borders if you like. Draw each side in at least two sections, plus the corners.

5. Draw the background.

6.Draw any necessary cut lines into the background, wherever there is a point, or a deep curve. Add more cut lines to reduce any background pieces that are too long and thin, or seem unbalanced. Do this in pencil - don’t be afraid to try things; you can draw and erase till you find the lines most pleasing to your eye. Try using all straight lines, or all curved lines, or both. (You say you can’t draw? Try using a “French curve” drafting tool – it has a series of curved edges to help you draw smooth curves.)

7.Your pattern is finished!

INSTALLATION Once you’ve built your panel from your pattern, you’re ready to install it. (Once again, for specific stained glass instructions, the video or intro book listed are invaluable for beginners.)

1.Remove the door from the cabinet, and lay it face down. Set your panel into the back side of the door. It should fit perfectly, or be a bit loose. (If it’s too tight, you can shave a bit off the outer edge of the came to make it fit.)

2.The easiest way to secure your panel is to glue it in with silicone adhesive, Delphi item #5690. You don’t need too much glue – just one or two spots on the short ends, and two to four spots on the long ends.

3. Let the glue set for 48 hours before hanging the door. If any glue shows from the front, simply trim it off with a single edge razor blade.

4. For a more secure look, you can use cabinet glass clips, Delphi item #8846. Be sure to pre-drill the screw holes for easier installation.

TheDelphian

Wednesday, December 2, 2009
25 Posts

We here have not tried using silicone for this purpose, not that it has never been used for sealing of panels before. It would hold the glass in place and protect it from water damage, however cement gives strength to the panel and silicone would not add the same support to your piece. You could use silicone, but I would only use it on small panels or suncatchers. Keep in mind that you may have difficulties cleaning up/off the extra silicone…but cementing is a messy process too. Experiment on something small and see how you like it.

rethasmit

Monday, November 30, 2009
3 Posts

Thank You very much! That was a great help. How does silicone hold up for using instead of the cementing? Retha

TheDelphian

Tuesday, November 24, 2009
25 Posts

In speaking with our resident expert on leaded glass she stated that there is no step to replace the cementing process. You can speed its drying process along slightly by either making a dryer mixture when putting the sebo polish and turpentine together with the putty, and/or have a ceramic heat source blowing across the panel(s) to heat/dry them quickly. Make sure that the heat used does not get too hot, (too localized or quickly intense) as to break the glass.

rethasmit

Tuesday, November 24, 2009
3 Posts

Help needed urgently I am pushed for time to complete two kitchen gabinet doors.  I have only 2 days left today and tommorrow. I will finish today with soldering the lead came joints. There will only be one day for the cementing and polishing.  What can I use instead of the cementing process? I normally make a mixture with zebo black polish mixed with terpentyne and putty to make up my cementing. Retha