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home : community : tips & techniques : fusing : fusing tips

Fusing Tips

How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.

Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.

Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.


Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.

Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.


Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.

Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.


How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).

Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.


Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.


Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.

It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.


What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.


How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.

There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.


I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.

  • Kiln Shelf
  • Kiln Posts - three or four to place underneath the kiln shelf, and one or two for venting or other purposes
  • Kiln wash
  • Haik brush for applying kiln wash
  • Heat-resistant protective gloves
  • Safety Glasses
  • Lid Lifter - to safely open the lid on larger floor kilns
  • Assortment of compatible glass

To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.


I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!

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16 Posts
Top Contributor
DelphiAnswers
Monday, May 13, 2013
@Jameas H. As dichroic glass is fired in the kiln the way that the glass can fire can sometimes allow for that distinct line between where the dichro layer starts to become more pronounced/noticeable; this is indicative of the way the glass will want to stay a ¼” thick while firing so depending on how the number of layers you’re using, etc. – the way the glass shrinks up under itself can denote a line around the circumference of the fused piece. This is ultimately because the dichroic layer is a metal coating and doesn’t move/shift with the glass.
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1 Post
james h.
Monday, February 25, 2013
Hi I need help can some one answer my question please when I fire my glass and dichroic caps with a clear cap I end up with a hair line around the out side of the cabs what can this be from.
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Delphi-Expert
146 Posts
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Chandra Agostini
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
@BigSkyDichroic You could always attempt to fire polish. But please be careful, given the temperatures for fire polishing and how long you may be holding you can seriously risk miss-shaping a slumped bowl or plate for example. There is also a product you could try, Clear Coat Overglaze (item# 7404ALT), but bear in mind that you would need to fire it to 1350F or higher which still risks miss-shaping a slumped piece.
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Delphi-Expert
146 Posts
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Chandra Agostini
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
@marlea Unknown, even if there was a way to indicate the COE of a certain manufacturer bottle chances are every other one you would look to use would be different. This is why we only recommend slumping bottles or utilizing a bottle cutter to create other forms of bottle art.
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Delphi-Expert
146 Posts
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Chandra Agostini
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
@jennalee Frequently, what you have described here is an indicator that you are in fact firing too hot. Also, you mention a post, are you working with a casting mold with a post? If so, you must be meticulous about detailing that primo primer into every nook and cranny of the mold and around the post. If you plan on doing more work with molds like this I may suggest you go with a boron nitride spray like MR-97 (item#93701).
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Delphi-Expert
146 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist
Chandra Agostini
Tuesday, January 22, 2013
@mary p. It sounds like the piece was stressed from the first firing and that is why it exploded. Did you use shelf paper in the kiln? Without it the glass would stick to the kiln. Shelf paper is a must. To repair the kiln you can use Kiln Repair Cement item #42902.
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4 Posts
mary p.
Monday, January 7, 2013
HELP! I am new to fusing. I was refusing a piece in my microwave kiln and it sort of exploded. When it cooled and I removed it-a bit of the kiln came with it, exposing whatever is under the white coating. can it be fixed? PS The piece came out pretty good!
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2 Posts
jennalee
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
Help! I've just started using my Studio 8 Kiln and I am having problems with the ceramic molds that came with my kit. I've broken 3 of them already!! I used the Primo Primer and put on 5 generous coats with ample drying time between. I think I am heating and cooling the glass slowly enough and I've tried to remove the glass from the molds at different temperatures. When I managed to pry one out it brought a lot of the bottom of the mold and the post with it.... Any ideas? Am I heating the glass too much or for too long that it is burning onto the mold? Thanks for any help!!
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1 Post
marlea
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
what is the COE of the glass used in wine and beer bottles
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Delphi-Expert
146 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist
Chandra Agostini
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
@ailismh Since it has been soaked in water you need to first make sure the molds are completely dry before the next firing b/c there is potential for explosion and you will have mold pieces all over the kiln. As far as cleaning it off it is a bit of a tedious process, the best material to use is a fine grit sandpaper and elbow grease; but you don’t have to completely clean it before putting on the next coat of primer. After you have completed the cleaning process reapply 4-5 coats of primer, let it dry again and then it will be ready firing.
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