Stained Glass Horse Patterns

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Stained Glass Horse Patterns
$17.95 USD
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Item# 6363   In Stock
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Product Features

  • 27 Patterns
  • Key with piece count to help plan your project
  • 11 Designs shown finished in color
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Product Description

Capture the Elegance of Horses in the Beauty of Stained Glass
Bring alive the spirit and beauty of horses with these stunning stained glass panel patterns. Ideal for beginner or intermediate stained glass artists. Patterns feature simple lines for easy cuts. Includes 27 realistic designs in a variety of styles, 11 colored images and a handy piece count reference guide.

Patterns include a rocking horse, carousel horse and Pegasus in addition to Native American Paint Ponies, a mare and foal, and more.

Project images shown come from the book. Designed and created by the author Lisa Tilson of Glass of Dreams Studio.

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4 out of 5 stars
  •   Stained Glass Horse Patterns
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Pros : Great patterns for the horse and Indian theme lover
Cons : Some of detail definately require a saw
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1. Make sure that your pieces are clean and dry. Cut a piece of clear contact paper, remove the backing and lay it sticky-side-up over the pattern. 2. This is a perfect way to hold cut glass, globs, jewels, or marbles in place for tack soldering. As you can see in the photo, you can even move the sheet around and, if you are careful, you shouldn’t disturb the glass at all. 3. Tack solder the pieces to each other as you normally would. Then, remove the contact paper and finish soldering the front before turning the project over and soldering the back. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All rights reserved.
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Reinforcement is necessary on larger windows. As a rule of thumb, a window more than three square feet should be reinforced. Either reinforcing bar or rod may be used for support. Be sure to consider this when designing the window so that the reinforcement does not intrude or compromise the design of the finished work. In either case the reinforcement is soldered to the back of the panel in one of two ways. The bar should be pre-tinned before use. You will solder the bar in several places at intersecting lines on the window. Rough the areas to be soldered on the bar with steel wool. Apply flux and coat the areas with solder. Doing this will make soldering the bar to the window much easier. Place the bar on edge and solder to the window in the predetermined areas. When using rod, a length of pre-tinned wire is first
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I have some questions about Lead-Free Solder. Does it tarnish over time? Can you use patina on it? Does it flow like regular solder? Is it better than regular solder? We are sure that you arent the only one with these questions. Lets start with the question of whether or not its better than regular solder. Since the harm from lead is caused by ingestion, any project that will come in contact with food or food containers should be made with lead-free solder. In addition, anything that is handled, like jewelry or kaleidoscopes, should be made with lead-free solder. Hands have a terrible habit of making it into the mouth before they get washed. So, yes it is better than regular solder in these situations. As far as working with solder, you should be diligent about cleaning your hands after touching any solder. Dont eat, drink, smoke, or do anything
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