Stained Glass Boxes

$12.95 USD
Item# 6296
In Stock Usually ships in 1 to 2 business days.

Product Features

  • Projects are compleate with full-sized patterns, a material list and degree of difficulty
  • Includes 34 different box patterns
  • 64 pages


Product Description

Full Size Patterns for 34 Stained Glass Boxes
Includes Revised and Expanded Assembly Instructions with Internet Based Support

Create beautiful stained glass boxes to hold your treasures. Projects are complete with full-sized patterns, a material list and a degree of difficulty evaluation. The 8 page how-to section has been revised and expanded in 2010 to guide you through the fabrication process.

Readers will find 34 different box patterns that are straightforward to fabricate. The sizes range from mini ring boxes to themed storage boxes that offer a wealth of inspiring ideas for unique and breathtaking creations.

Artist/Designer: Randy Wardell

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4 out of 5 stars
  •   stained glass boxes
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Pros : I enjoyed this book very much There are so many different styles and the description of the steps are very clear and easy to read.
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Other Thoughts : I have several different ones ready to work on or completed
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Related Content
Jun 24, 2010
1. Make the glass strips as wide as youd like your mosaic chunks to be. Strips about 1/2 to 3/4 usually work well. 2. Snip small pieces off the strip. Aiming your mosaic cutter straight across the strip will produce squares and rectangles. Aiming the cutter at an angle (the same angle each time you cut) will give you diamonds. A combination of aiming straight across the strip and at alternating angles will produce triangles. 3. Once youve aimed the cutter, just squeeze the handles until a piece of glass breaks off. Or, you can snip pieces off a larger piece of glass. Cut near the edge and work towards the middle. This will produce random moon shaped pieces, which you can use to fill in small areas of background. They also make nice leaves.
Jun 07, 2010
1. Make sure that your pieces are clean and dry. Cut a piece of clear contact paper, remove the backing and lay it sticky-side-up over the pattern. 2. This is a perfect way to hold cut glass, globs, jewels, or marbles in place for tack soldering. As you can see in the photo, you can even move the sheet around and, if you are careful, you shouldn’t disturb the glass at all. 3. Tack solder the pieces to each other as you normally would. Then, remove the contact paper and finish soldering the front before turning the project over and soldering the back. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All rights reserved.
May 05, 2010
I have some questions about Lead-Free Solder. Does it tarnish over time? Can you use patina on it? Does it flow like regular solder? Is it better than regular solder? We are sure that you arent the only one with these questions. Lets start with the question of whether or not its better than regular solder. Since the harm from lead is caused by ingestion, any project that will come in contact with food or food containers should be made with lead-free solder. In addition, anything that is handled, like jewelry or kaleidoscopes, should be made with lead-free solder. Hands have a terrible habit of making it into the mouth before they get washed. So, yes it is better than regular solder in these situations. As far as working with solder, you should be diligent about cleaning your hands after touching any solder. Dont eat, drink, smoke, or do anything