No two ways about it, getting a good black patina on zinc came can be a problem. But it is not impossible. I sometimes tell my students that the best thing about using zinc on their project, is that it will probably disappear inside their projects wood frame, but that doesnt have to be the case. Follow these few simple steps and youll find that, with a few modifications to standard patina finishing procedure, getting a nice dark finish on zinc isnt such a mystery after all. You wont be able to get a copper sulfate finish on zinc; the chemicals just wont work, but you can get a number of shades from light charcoal to black Step One: Metal Prep Zinc fresh out of the case, like any other metal, will immediately begin to oxidize. You may not be able to see any visible signs of oxidation, but believe me, its there. To combat oxidation in preparation for applying any patina to your zinc, you should first go over the metal surface with a fine grade steel wool (000 or 0000 grade will work just fine. See photo top left). As you do this, you will notice a difference in the finish of the zinc (See photos right). Compare the freshly cleaned areas of your zinc came with untouched ar

Ah, the perfect scoreevery glass cutters dream . But is there really such a thing? Lets put it this way: If you run your glass cutter around your pattern, apply pressure to the glass surface and the glass breaks predictablywhats so imperfect about that? Nothing really, but if your su cessful breaks are the product of luck rather than skill, well hope for the best, but expect otherwise. To guarantee a good glass score every time takes nothing more than observing a few non-negotiable facts about how your glass cutter interacts with you and your glass. Step One: Get Comfortable You must be comfortable with your glass cutter. If you havent already, find a glass cutter you like, and most importantly, likes you back. That means finding a glass cutter that isnt uncomfortable to hold. You should be able to cut glass without getting fatigued or feeling any pain. Blisters are sometimes unavoidable, but pain and fatigue will undoubtedly frustrate you. The right, comfortable glass cutter will allow you a long cutting session, during which you can concentrate on technique and not be distracted by discomfort. Step Two: Get In Position Position is everything. The wheel at the end

I love my glass grinder. In fact, I have a couple of them. But I dont grind every piece of glass that I cut. For me, its not necessary. If you can cut accurately, and by accurately I mean no bigger or smaller than your pattern, you may be able to cut down on your projects time by trying out a tool that Ive come to love and rely upon, my grinding stone. A grinding stone, or abrasive stone harks to an earlier day in the history of glass cutting, but still has its value when used in conjunction with good solid, glass scoring and breaking technique. In the pre-grinder days, these stones were de rigueur for the well equipped glazier and to put it simply, they got the job done. Learning to use the stone will take about thirty seconds of training; implementing it can save you hours. Step One: Get Stoned Most stained glass suppliers carry abrasive stones. They are not expensive. Get one, you wont regret it. Step Two: Use It An abrasive stone cannot shape your glass pieces the way a glass grinder can, but it can get rid of those nasty little edges on your freshly cut pieces of glass. Instead of taking your glass to the grinder to clean your edges, just run the surface

Foiling and crimping. Most glass people either hate it or love it. Its one of those jobs that just has to get done one way or the other. Foiling glass is a no brainer, and the technique can be mastered in a matter of minutes, but crimpingwell , lets just say that it has its variations. One method that I picked up from the productions shop I first worked in has always proved to be the quickest and most efficient: Finger fids. Whats a finger fid? What youll need: 1. Masking tape 2. Your fingers Step One: Extend the thumb, index and middle fingers of the hand you usually crimp your foil with; or if you use a fid, the hand you usually hold your fid with. Step Two: Cut about ten short strips of masking tape approximately 3 long. Step Three: Beginning with any one of your fingers, wrap the tape over the tip of your finger and press it onto the sides. Wrap a second strip over your finger tip at a right angle to the first. Finally wrap a third strip of tape around your finger covering the two tape ends. Step Four: Repeat for your middle finger and thumb (Suggestion: you might want to put an extra layer of tape on your thumb since that finger usuall