@jhaan Thanks for this .I have always thought glass had to be cooled very quickly through the devitrification zone to avoid greyness hence the flash cool.I must have misunderstood or read some conflicting information. I will check out the system96 website

April 18, 2011 This is not a comment it is a question or rather a plea for help.I make fused glass pictures in the uk.Recently I have two 12" squares which have cracked across one corner one after more than a year of moving from gallery to gallery. Before fusing I soak at 555c for 1 hour then soak again at 671c for 30 mins then fuse at 780 around 10 mins then flash cool.Finally I soak at 516c for 3 hours or four and then turn off the kiln and cool usually overnight. My kiln is a top loader paragon pearl 18 clamshell firebrick. larger pieces are drilled at the edges and screwed to board. Do I need to slow down my cooling process?or is my approach all wrong for this type of work.I have had no trouble as yet with panels which are smaller 6 or 8 by 12" and layered 2 thick. I was a jeweller for 20 years and discovered dichroic and fused glass about five years ago.I made glass jewellery first which worked very well.Then clocks and finally panels adjusting my annealing each time. These works are usually no more than 8 mill thick in any place though there are different depths in them and sometimes bullseye and wasser together. Any ideas and help would be most appreciated Yours Deborah A very confused by all the annealing info I have read recently uk glass maker

April 18, 2011 Hi I looked at your work and thought you might be the person with an answer.Your work is lovely and very accomplished. This is not a comment it is a question or rather a plea for help.I make fused glass pictures in the uk.Recently I have two 12" squares which have cracked across one corner one after more than a year of moving from gallery to gallery. Before fusing I soak at 555c for 1 hour then soak again at 671c for 30 mins then fuse at 780 around 10 mins then flash cool.Finally I soak at 516c for 3 hours or four and then turn off the kiln and cool usually overnight. My kiln is a top loader paragon pearl 18 clamshell firebrick. larger pieces are drilled at the edges and screwed to board. Do I need to slow down my cooling process?or is my approach all wrong for this type of work.I have had no trouble as yet with panels which are smaller 6 or 8 by 12" and layered 2 thick. I was a jeweller for 20 years and discovered dichroic and fused glass about five years ago.I made glass jewellery first which worked very well.Then clocks and finally panels adjusting my annealing each time. These works are usually no more than 8 mill thick in any place though there are different depths in them and sometimes bullseye and wasser together. Any ideas and help would be most appreciated Yours Deborah A very confused by all the annealing info I have read recently uk glass maker

Hi This is not a comment it is a question or rather a plea for help.I make fused glass pictures.Recently I have two 12" squares which have cracked across one corner one after more than a year of moving from gallery to gallery. Before fusing I soak at 555c for 1 hour then soak again at 671c for 30 mins then fuse at 780 around 10 mins then flash cool.Finally I soak at 516c for 3 hours or four and then turn off the kiln and cool.My kiln is a top loader pearl 18 clamshell firebrick. larger pieces are drilled at the edges and screwed to board. Do I need to slow down my cooling process? These works are usually no more than 8 mill thick in any place though there are different depths in them and sometimes bullseye and wasser together. Any ideas and help would be most appreciated Yours Deborah A very confused by all the annealing info I have read recently uk glass maker