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@prainey This problem is occurring most likely as a result of trying to fuse and slump the glass all in one firing. We do not recommend this. First we suggest that you fuse the two pieces of glass together at a full fuse of 1450 degrees. Then take the fused pieces and slump that on the mold at a temp of 1250 degrees. It is the difference in temps for each process that is causing the glass to stick to the mold when attempting to do both at the same time.
@DonnaC.Martin Thank you for bringing this to our attention. The availability of the caps has been spotty so at one point they were included in the kit. We have updated the product listing on our site to reflect they are sold separately. Also the user manuals for our products can be found on our website for download. For that reason we do not typically supply a printed copy in the box. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have cause. To find the manual go to item#1032 look in the additional images for the .pdf document. Hope this helps make this a little better. :)
@ElletteShafer It sounds like you are checking the obvious issues by confirming the COE is the same and using the settings provided. Normally we try to provide answers but since this is complicated and needs more information and questioning we would ask that you contact us over the phone. We do have a dedicated project help line where we are standing by to assist at anytime with questions like this- 1-800-821-9450.
@Kuwikly I have watched this video and see that we had demonstrated some 3-D soldering with some dichroic zipper bevels. While we no longer carry the dichroic zipper bevels we do carry some Granite Dichroic Bevels (i.e. Delphi item #’s 5261DGP, 5262DGP, 5263DGP just to name a few).
@Stephen23240 Yes, we are familiar with the struggles that the X200 has presented; and have communicated feedback to the manufacturer. We’ve also noticed that it tends to be a magnet for bubbles as well. The best approach we can suggest you take is to make sure you aren’t just going too hot but also not too hot, too quickly. Both too high of heat as well as ramping too quickly to that high temperature can cause devit. Also, just a reminder, once there is devit on the glass there isn’t a guaranteed way of reversing it, so just be sure you’re using a new piece each time you attempt to fire.
@Jameas H. As dichroic glass is fired in the kiln the way that the glass can fire can sometimes allow for that distinct line between where the dichro layer starts to become more pronounced/noticeable; this is indicative of the way the glass will want to stay a ¼” thick while firing so depending on how the number of layers you’re using, etc. – the way the glass shrinks up under itself can denote a line around the circumference of the fused piece. This is ultimately because the dichroic layer is a metal coating and doesn’t move/shift with the glass.
@Mary B. Bottle cutting is easy and fun, no need to be afraid. We recommend the G2 bottle cutter because it is easy to use and the price is reasonable, especially for beginners. We have two videos on how to assemble and how to use this cutter. You can view these from the link in the blog to the G2 or go to http://bit.ly/Y1YKfM. Good luck and remember if you try it you just might love it!
3380 E. Jolly Rd
3380 E. Jolly Rd