| Instructions are also available in .pdf format Download Silver Jewelry Clay Instructions |
| Viewing these downloadable file requires the use of the free Adobe Acrobat Reader. If you do not have the free Adobe Acrobat Reader on your system, you may download it from the Adobe web
site. |
Imagine A New Type of Silver -
Soft enough to shape and mold like modeling clay - that is fired into genuine silver jewelry. All without complex and expensive forging and casting equipment! It's not myth: it's a real material called Precious Metal Clay (PMC) that's absolutely fun and fascinating to work with. Just mold the clay, let it dry, do final shaping, then fire, polish, and wear! |
I. What Is Silver Jewelry Clay?
| A. |
Silver jewelry clay is a mixture of tiny particles of silver, a binding agent and water. A unique substance that can be sculpted and formed, the clay is fired to burn out organic binders, leaving behind a 99.99% pure silver project. |
| B. |
The amazing nature of this clay means that a finished piece only shrinks by about 10% of the original design size. |
| C. |
Silver jewelry clay can be fired using a hand-held BUTANE torch or a small kiln. |
|
II. Basic Tools And Common Uses
| A. |
PMC+ Silver: Available in clay, syringe, paste and sheet/paper forms. PMC3 Silver: Available in clay, syringe and paste forms. |
| B. |
Roller: use to roll clay out to a uniform thickness. |
| C. |
Cardboard Strips: use with the roller as a gauge to maintain uniform thickness (most projects require about 1.2 mm thickness for strength). |
| D. |
Palette Knife: use to cut clay and to smooth surfaces as needed. |
| E. |
Paint Brush: use to apply silver jewelry paste or to moisten clay as you work on a project to prevent cracking (clay dries out as you work, so reapplying water keeps the clay malleable). |
| F. |
Half Round File: use on dried project to smooth rough spots before firing. |
| G. |
Firing Brick: a heat resistant surface for torch firing. |
| H. |
Butane Torch: fires silver clay project to burn off organic binders. Good for most small projects. Large projects, or those using advanced techniques may require a small kiln to fire evenly. |
| I. |
Tweezers: use to handle newly fired projects and to set stones or other design elements. Also works well for burnishing fired projects. Delphi Tip: To get additional shine on a finished project, use the side of the tweezers to rub the surface of the silver. |
| J. |
Stainless Steel Brush: use to polish the natural crystaline surface of fired fine silver producing a smooth and shiny brushed finish. |
| K. |
Polishing Block: a small rubber surface that grips your project while you polish. Allows for firm scrubbing without having the project roll away. |
| L. |
Tinted Safety Glasses: wear when firing project. |
|
III. Additional Recommended Supplies
| A. |
Small cups of water. |
| B. |
Baking parchment or plastic page protectors to use as a work surface. |
| C. |
Bag balm, olive oil, or other organic oil to use as a release agent. It will burn off during firing. |
| D. |
Fine grit sandpaper for fine finishing (1200 grit wet/dry works best). |
| E. |
Heat resistant work surface (#425705 Metal Surface works well). |
| F. |
Butane, which is available in pressurized canisters at most convenience stores. |
|
IV. Tips and Techniques
| A. |
To extend the working life of your clay, make sure all clay is well wrapped in an air-tight container when not in use. |
| B. |
If clay dries out, reconstitute it by adding a few drops of water and letting it sit wrapped, then work back into original consistency. |
| C. |
For proper strength, clay should be approximately 1.2 mm thick (the size of the cardboard strip set). |
| D. |
Make sure all surfaces that touch the clay are lightly coated with an organic release (i.e. olive oil or bag balm) to prevent sticking. |
| E. |
Your working area should be cool and without direct lighting, fans or fireplaces, to prevent premature drying and cracking. |
| F. |
If cracks occur, projects are not ruined. They can be filled with paste and sanded when dry or the clay can be broken down and reconstituted (see above). |
| G. |
Allow clay to thoroughly dry. Placing the project in front of a fan, on a warming plate or using a warm air blow dryer can reduce drying time. |
| H. |
Projects that are dried but not fired are not yet definite. Cracks can be filled; details can be added by using your paste as a glue then attaching syringe work or other small pieces of clay. |
| I. |
Before firing your work make sure your project is exactly what you want the finished piece to look like. Sand all edges smooth, make sure cracks are filled and all parts are secured. Once fired the piece is final. |
|
