Shop By Category
3 Days Only - Up to 70% OFF Superior Bevels

Fusing Tips

How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.

Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.

Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.


Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.

Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.


Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.

Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.


How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).

Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.


Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.


Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.

It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.


What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.


How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.

There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.


I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.

  • Kiln Shelf
  • Kiln Posts - three or four to place underneath the kiln shelf, and one or two for venting or other purposes
  • Kiln wash
  • Haik brush for applying kiln wash
  • Heat-resistant protective gloves
  • Safety Glasses
  • Lid Lifter - to safely open the lid on larger floor kilns
  • Assortment of compatible glass

To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.


I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!

1
...
5
6
7
...
11

gilsglasscontac

Thursday, June 7, 2012
1 Post

After I have TAC fused my weaved sushi plates, sometimes I have to grind the edges to make them even. This requires me to put them back in the kiln to "fire polish" the ground edges. After that is completed, I put them back in the kiln for slumping. Can I combine the sumping and fire polishing in one fireing?

mlag55

Monday, June 4, 2012
1 Post

I made a beautiful bowl using the 6-1/2" bowl mold. Now I want to flatten the bottom of it so that it doesn't wobble but I don't want to change the shape of the bowl at all. What is the best way to do this?

DelphiHelper

Monday, May 14, 2012
38 Posts

You will want to start with a boron nitride mold release we recommend MR-97 item number 93701. You can find a video on our website with application instructions. You will then fill your mold with frit (and the amount is based entirely on the expected thickness of the finished piece.) Just be careful not to overfill as that can create problems when you go to release your project from the mold. You can do some amazing work with these molds but it will likely take some trial and error before you get consistent results. Good luck and have fun!

nancy H.

Sunday, May 13, 2012
2 Posts

i have a celtic cross mold. i'm not sure how to use it. help please. i'm assuming i use colour deverre but not sure how much frit to use.

DelphiHelper

Thursday, April 12, 2012
38 Posts

@simplespark Here are my suggestions; since I'm not sure if you're working with COE 90 or 96, I ve given you item numbers for both. We don t sell dark blue in crinkle coating but we do sell some textures in this color and if you fire it without a clear cap you will still get that splinter effect (since the coating is metallic) and will not stretch with the glass as it melts. 153401, X153401, X4227

simplespark

Wednesday, April 11, 2012
1 Post

I need help fast! I am a budding glass artist and friend asked me to make earring for her wedding. The time is quick approaching and I haven't been able to get the right kind of dark blue crinkle. Any advice as to what glass to buy would be awesome. Thank you in advance! I am desperate!

DelphiHelper

Monday, April 9, 2012
38 Posts

@dlstressed, Of course you can re-slump! In a case like this it would be best to fuse again into a flat piece. Then you can use a bandsaw or a grinder to make sure your piece does not exceed the size of the mold. We recommend turning the mold upside down on top of the glass and tracing around it with a black sharpie. This will give you an accurate measurement and any sharpie remaining after grinding or sawing will burn off in the kiln. Any place the glass overhangs, you have the potential for this problem or as you pointed out it can sometimes slide during the slump if it doesn t heat evenly for some reason. Never refuse to re-fuse!

dlstressed

Saturday, April 7, 2012
5 Posts

so i slumped my glass on the sushi tray-apparently it was slightly too wide(thought i cut it to right size) or else it slid crookedly when it slumped & now i have an uneven lip on 1 side-can i re-slump or what do you recommend?

mparent123

Monday, March 5, 2012
4 Posts

@DelphiHelper (oops on 1st reply!) I actually went ahead & tried it (I'm so impatient when I get an idea) and it turned out beautifully. I used the rake I had purchased from Delphi, and followed various instructions I had found online. While none of them discussed using molds specifically, I followed the rule of ensuring several coats of kiln wash, and I made sure not to rake too deep. Also kept my intrusion quick then flash vented to 1200 before ramping down to anneal. Thanks!

mparent123

Monday, March 5, 2012
4 Posts

@DelphiHelper

1
...
5
6
7
...
11