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Chances are it is not the solder but your soldering iron. If the iron has an adjustable thermostat turn it down to a cooler temp. If the iron has an internal thermostat you will have to work quickly with the solder and let the came and solder cool down after each application. Using a solder that sets up quick is also helpful. Try 50/50 solder for this.
@DianeS Came alway needs to be stretched. Otherwise it will sag away from the edge of the glass. If you are wraping suncatchers or something similar there is no need to cement it.
System 96 recommends this: "Bubbles are best avoided in the design stage. Large areas of uninterrupted layering invite them. For example, a 10x10-inch sheet atop another 10x10-inch sheet leaves no easy avenue of escape for the air between glass layers. Alternately, a 10x10-inch sheet topped with four 5x5-inch pieces provides seams to ven trapped air. Design to avoid bubbles for the best prevention." A few other tips are 1. To place coarse frit along the edges of the glass to hold the edges up longer allowing air to escape as the center settles. 2. Use a bubble squeeze. You can download this information from the System 96 website.
Copper wire works best.
Sorry, but unfortunately there isn't.
The butterfly on the trend page is a artist original. Here is one that is similar from Stained Glass News. By adding details with wire you will get the same look. http://www.delphiglass.com/stained-glass-patterns/more-free-patterns/free-sgn-pattern-55
You can use a fine steel wool to gently clean the white oxidization off. Next use a flux cleaner to remove any flux residue that has remained on the surface especially in corners. Use a toothbrush and brush the surface for at least five minutes with the remover. It takes this long for the acids to become neutralized. There are products such as Kwik-Clean Flux Remover which work without water if you don't want to get the piece too wet. Simichrome Polish works well to clean and polish solder and lead came or you can polish with a glass finishing compound. Depending on the weather where you live, oxidization may be more of a problem and will require regular cleaning to keep the piece shinning.
It depend on the environment how long it will take to dry. The color will lighten as it dries.
The anealing door will not have an effect on the firing of the kiln. It is a convienence for bead makers. Batch anealing beads in a kiln is just fine. And lastly, the ditigal control kilns are very reliable. They can also be programed with your firing schedules so, if you have schedules that you like you can use them!
The flux cleaner works by neutralizing the acids found in the flux. It takes up to five minutes for this to happen. It is important to apply the fulx cleaner and brush it into all the small areas when cleaning the project and to continue brushing for at least five minutes. Apply more remover if necessary during this process. Then rinse well (Kwik Clean does not require rinsing) and apply a finnishing compound.
3380 E. Jolly Rd
3380 E. Jolly Rd