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There was no information posted under several categories for technique. Please complete website. Thanks

@lisagw To use a curved surface draping or slumping mold such as the table lamp mold you mention, you will want to make sure glass is centered and balanced on the mold. It is easiest to do this by placing the kiln washed mold on your prepared kiln shelf, then positioning the glass. If your glass is un-evenly weighted (maybe it has extra decoration only at one side) it may not sit level, but as long as it is correctly placed by measurement it should form nicely. Hope this helps - and happy fusing!

@Rzwerdling The channel of the wood framing stock that we offer is 3/8" deep x 5/16" wide, and will completely conceal your 1/4" Adjustable U (or smaller) zinc, brass or copper came border.

I'm interested in adding a wood frame from Delphi to frame my stained glass panel 9" x 36". I wanted the frame to be 1" wide oak from Delphi What type/ size of came channel (?) do I need to fit in the wood frame routing so it is completely concealed when constructed?

Hi! I'm confused about where to place the glass when using a table lamp mold (item#80685.) Do I balance it on the top of the mold (won't it fall off?) or do I center it and lean it against the mold (won't it melt funny?) Thanks, Lisa

@bsxtr2311150357 5/64" RU Hobby Came is designed as a border for small projects and sun catchers. To stretch it you can secure one end in a bench vise then, making sure it's not twisted, use pliers to pull and stretch it. It doesn't overlap far onto the edges of the glass, so it's very important that it is well stretched before use (any amount of stretching or sagging after assembly will allow glass to come out easily). It should be cut for a tight fit, then soldered at the cut ends and each point an internal solder line or lead line intersects with it. Because it is narrow, it solders very quickly - be careful not to overheat and melt the came. If you are looking for a more substantial border, 1/8" Flat U Lead would be slightly wider (1/16" is not available - it would actually be smaller than 5/64").

I just got some of the 5/64" u channel hobby came like the others and also cannot find good information on how to use it. It it flat with very tiny edges that will not hold the glass. Do you stretch it by hand and then use it like copper foil, bending up the edges and then burnishing it? Then, just carefully solder the joints so it doesn't melt? It is for a small sun catcher. Also, it 1/16" a better choice than 5/64"? I couldn't find 1/16 on Delphi's website so I thought I would try the 5/64, but as I said, there is really no lip on the 5/64 so I am not sure how it is supposed to hold the glass well.

There are several popular books that provide loads of information to get started fusing - a good book will generally explain firing schedules, glass compatibility, and basic techniques. "Contemporary Fused Glass"

@Mary Jane W. while devitrification may be the issue, it most commonly occurs in a higher temperature range than would typically be used for the slumping process. It is not uncommon (especially with clear glass) to be able to see the slight texture that results from contact with the kiln shelf or fiber paper during the initial fuse firing. Once the glass is slumped, the way the light is refracted by the slight texture can make it seem more visible. You can also review your firing schedule to make sure you aren't firing hotter than necessary for your slumping/draping process - you can find some helpful hints at http://www.delphiglass.com/page/knowledgeBaseView?KBItemID=90

I'm not sure if my pieces are getting devit or if I have a different issue. When I slump vases using a clear base, areas of the glass that don't come into contact with the mold look frosted. Is there a coating that I can put on the glass that will fire polish the frosty look out?