| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
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Lead Stretcher Quantity: 1 |
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6" Layout Block System Quantity: 1 |
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22" Wide Piper's Pattern Paper Quantity: 1 |
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16" x 20" Bullseye French Vanilla Opal Thin - 90 COE Quantity: 1 |
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12" x 12" Oceanside Dubai Chocolate Fusers Reserve Opa.. Quantity: 1 |
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3380 E. Jolly RdLansingMI48910
(800) 248-2048
by sydsgrammy on Apr 10, 2014
I am new to fusing. I bought a kiln and a wavy slump plate mold. Do I have to put anything on the mold beside glass before firing. I am anxious to get started. No classes in the area. thank u for your help How do I know what temperature to set the kiln at. I started with a microwave kiln and had a lot of fun and success with it but limited to what I can do so I bought the larger kiln.
by [email protected] on Apr 04, 2014
@aremartin, The information in the product listing contains the amount to be added for the proper outside measurements.
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Mar 20, 2014
@speakspoke we don't have any experience with using either of these products in a blown glass application. We believe that decals are likely to burn away in the heat of the torch. Flexiglass matures much like regular glass and reacts something like frit or enamel would when used with binders like liquid stringer or other glass medium. Again, we aren't sure about the use of either of these products with a torch but we'd love to hear about your results.
by speakspoke on Mar 12, 2014
Hello, I am a glassblower and was interested in the applications for flexiglass and decals on blown pieces. Also, what temperature does flexi glass mature?
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Feb 27, 2014
@bburton the line between the two pieces of glass will easier to see after grinding, especially if there are distinct color differences in the layers of glass. A fire polish in the kiln can help to minimize the distinction but it can't always be entirely eliminated. For an appropriate fire polish schedule see DelphiGlass.com/glassfusing.
by bburton on Feb 26, 2014
In regard to fusing jewellery, what is the tip to minimize the fuse line? Do they appear because of grinding? If grinding is needed what is the tip to eliminate, or is there one?
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Feb 25, 2014
@Retired Plumber we would suggest one piece of rebar running horizontally on the 14.5" x 59.5" piece and three pieces, two vertically and one horizontally on the 12" x 81.5" piece.
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Feb 25, 2014
@kastarkey it sounds like your soldering iron is still too hot. We suggest plugging your iron into a temperature controller, taking a scrap of came, apply some flux and then test soldering it while adjusting your temperature. When your came stops melting you'll have found the correct temperature.
by kastarkey on Feb 24, 2014
I am trying to do a sun catcher project using soft lead came. As I wrap each piece and then try to solder the pieces together, the came just melts into big holes. I've never solder with the soft came before, but looking at the project, that's what it uses. I have a sun face circle medallion wrapped in the came, with nuggets wrapped in the came with the ends coming to a point looking like sunrays. I tried using a lower temperature, but that didn't help. How can I solder this soft came properly????
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Jan 29, 2014
@greenthumbjen there is no limit to how many times you can fire a project. However, the more times a project is fired, the greater the risk of devitrification, especially with opal glass which tends to devitrify more quickly than transparent glass.