| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
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Lead Stretcher Quantity: 1 |
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6" Layout Block System Quantity: 1 |
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22" Wide Piper's Pattern Paper Quantity: 1 |
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16" x 20" Bullseye French Vanilla Opal Thin - 90 COE Quantity: 1 |
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12" x 12" Oceanside Dubai Chocolate Fusers Reserve Opa.. Quantity: 1 |
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3380 E. Jolly RdLansingMI48910
(800) 248-2048
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Dec 16, 2013
@StaceysLawnDecor The directions for the peacock mold are a good place to start. Bubbles happen when air gets trapped between pieces of glass or the glass and the mold. There are a few possible solutions. First - don't use frit between layers of glass; if frit is desired place it in the ridges on the mold. You can try venting your layers of glass by cutting one or both in half or quarters to give the air a place to escape. Alternatively use one double thick piece instead of two layered pieces. One of our experts also suggested drilling 5 tiny holes - one in the center and four around the mold to allow air to escape. Raising the mold up on kiln posts to allow the heat to circulate can also help.
by Jennifer Bonesteel on Dec 16, 2013
@glassaudio3210 There are a couple of things that can cause breakage when draping over a cup mold. First, heating too quickly can cause cracking, ramp no higher than 300 degrees per hour, and be sure to let the glass anneal and then fully cool before opening your kiln. Use a piece of shelf paper between the glass and the cup - especially if you're using a ceramic mold - to add a little space - otherwise your glass can grip the cup too hard and break and/or become stuck to your mold. Of course incompatible COE will often cause breakage so you might double check your glass compatibility using a stress tester.
by glassaudio3210 on Dec 15, 2013
I'm having trouble with my cup slumping mold. Everything that I am trying to slump is cracking. No idea what I'm doing wrong It's a 6 " cup mold and I'm using a flat piece of glass about 5" square. COE 90.
by DelphiCustomerCare on Dec 12, 2013
@Kelly G. Foil often peels off if an oil fed glass cutter is used and residual oil exists on your glass. Even the oil from your fingers can create a weak spot. Be sure to clean your glass really well before foiling. If your hanging small projects lead hobby came can be used around the edges to "hold it all together." For projects that do not hang (picture frames, etc.) you should be fine to simply solder your foil.
by DelphiCustomerCare on Dec 12, 2013
@Eric S. Have you tried cleaning your iron on a tinning block and trying it with the new solder? If you are still having trouble please give us a call at 800.248.2048. We would be happy to help you troubleshoot.
by DelphiCustomerCare on Dec 11, 2013
@Laceyboo it is absolutely okay to cut down a flat texture mold to fit inside your kiln. Exceptions, of course, where cutting it would make the mold crooked and might cause your glass to run off the edge.
by DelphiCustomerCare on Dec 11, 2013
@mosaicsnovice we offer three light boxes. They are all quite simple to use. Simply turn them on, lay your pattern on top and trace the pattern onto your glass right on top of the light box. We don't have directions posted online but they do come inside the box.
by DelphiCustomerCare on Dec 09, 2013
@aremartin When it says to take into consideration the "miter allowance" it's referring to the channel where your piece sits. Essentially you need to measure the width and height inside the channel where the panel will sit - don't if you measure the opening or the outside your measurements will be accurate.
by mosaicsnovice on Nov 15, 2013
Your lightbox sounds very interesting. as a glass cutting newbie, any helpful tools are greatly appreciated. Would you please send the instructions?
by Laceyboo on Nov 13, 2013
Is it okay to cut down a textured mold to fit a smaller kiln?