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@ Cementing is always recommended, even for something as small as a sun catcher. The cement helps fill the channel, preventing glass from rattling, firming the structure to help prevent sagging, and giving the came that beautiful dark finish.

How do you control the annealing time and temperature in a microwave kiln? I am having issues with glass cracking and I am pretty sure it is due to annealing times and temps. What tips do you have to control that? I have an 1100 watt microwave and my Microwave Kiln is 7-1/2 Inch Outside diameter and 5 Inch inside diameter. Any guidance is very helpful.

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@nancy o.

@mosaicsnovice

@comments4

@ There are several approaches to installing glass art into cabinet doors, but most frequently the doors are designed with a routered channel on the reverse to fit the glass art. Stained glass panels should be finished with a soldered or came border, then inserted into the opening and secured. Methods for securing the panel can include using clear silicone adhesive, which will prevent panels from rattling, but makes it difficult to remove and change panels later, or using retaining buttons or cabinet door clips which are affixed to the wood door with a screw and press the panel into the frame gently. These hardware options are available at Delphi, and should be positioned around the border of the frame so it captures your art from all edges.

@curly6 The slightly matte or textured surface is the result of the glass touching the mold. Unfortunately, at the temperature needed to "fire polish" something, the glass is soft enough that it will not retain the slumped shape. For future projects, you can attempt to avoid this finish by reducing the time that the glass is exposed to slumping temperatures. You may wish to set an alarm on your controller for when the kiln reaches the target process temperature so you can check the slump progress and skip to the next (cooling) segment of your cycle. This may help prevent the glass from fully settling into the mold and imprinting the texture of the ceramic mold surface.

@ When determining what size border came to use on a panel, there can be a few considerations, and there's not an absolute answer. Is the panel going to be hung in a window by hangers, is it being installed into an existing opening such as a cabinet door or window frame, or are you building a custom wood frame to finish your art? Are you using a rigid (zinc, brass or copper) came or lead came border? For projects that will be well supported by a frame, you may opt to choose a narrow border so the came remains hidden in the channel of the frame or behind finish trim work. For art that will be hung, or may be less supported you may wish to use a wider border. This will not only provide a bit of extra strength, but provide a nice defined border. For a 14" x 17" panel, our instructors would recommend 3/8" adjustable U came. This will provide support, and the design of the channel will make it easier to install hanging rings securely.

I just slumped a very nice 12 inch bowl. The inner surface and edges are smooth and glossy. The outer surface (that went down into the mold) is not looking good. Can I refire so the outer surface is "polished" without disrupting the rest of the bowl?