Why are there different colors of foil?
Copper foil is available with several color backings. The backing is on the adhesive side of the foil so that when the foil is wrapped around a piece of transparent glass the color backing is visible if you look "inside" the foiled area through the glass. This sounds like a small detail, but if you patina your solder lines, a different color foil backing would be very obvious if you used cathedral or clear glass. If you plan on using copper patina the copper foil with no color backing will match, if you plan on leaving the solder in its natural silver color the silver foil will match, or black backed foil for black patina. By using matched foil and solder finish you eliminate having a black solder line with a "halo" of copper showing through the glass.
I'm having difficulty getting a nice finish on my copper foil project. What is going wrong?
Finishing your project is an important process. If you're not getting the finish you want, the problem could happen at any point in the process. Make sure you're following the following steps, and you're sure to finish your next project perfectly!
After soldering it is VERY important to neutralize and remove all flux residue from your soldering. CJ's Flux Removeris designed specifically to do this. Apply some CJ's, and using a soft to medium bristle brush or a clean soft rag scrub the project thoroughly. Flush with lots of clean water to rinse away any residue.
If you want to apply a patina, do it now using a clean soft cloth or brush. It is important that you do not track other chemicals into your patina because this can prevent it from working properly (note: patina will not work on lead free solders). Apply evenly to the project and when you reach your desired color, rinse with lots of water. Do NOT let the patina stand on the project for more than a few minutes, the extended application time will not darken or intensify the color, but it could damage the glass.
Next you will want to apply a finish coat to seal and protect the metal. Stained Glass Finishing Compound by Clarity works well. It is a liquid wax that is easy to apply evenly and buffs up to a beautiful shiny finish. Again, use a clean soft cloth for this step.
Some additional factors to consider if you are already doing all these things are:
- Any oil or wax on the solder will prevent a patina from coloring the surface evenly. If your finish is blotchy try using a cotton ball with a little rubbing alcohol to clean the areas that didn't "take" and re-apply the patina.
- Sometimes chemicals or minerals in your water supply can prevent patina from taking well or make a project appear dull in finish. If this is the case try using a gallon jug of distilled water from the grocery store for your final rinse.
- If the project is developing white and crusty areas several days after finishing, try using some baking soda and water to eliminate any mild acid that may be left behind from your flux or patina. Rinse and reapply finishing compound.
I noticed that foil comes in different thicknesses (.001", .00125", .0015"). Which size is best to minimize foil splitting on inside curves?
Thickness really doesn't matter when it comes to foiling inside curves. You can use any of the thicknesses. The trick is to not pull the foil as taut. Immediately after foiling the inside curve, crimp down the sides gently and ease the foil around the curve. Then continue foiling the rest of the glass and burnish it gently.
Patinated Or Plated?
I have seen stained glass items where the solder seams seem almost to be of chrome. It is bright shiny silver. How do I do that????
It sounds as though the solder seams may be chrome-plated. Plating is a process where a glass pieces is dipped into a vat which contains a chemical solution with metal particles in it. An electrically charged source is attached to a soldered portion of the finished glass piece which draws the metal particles in the chemical solution onto the solder seams. To protect the metallic coating, a clear lacquer is applied which also gives is a bright and shiny finish. If this is the look you desire to have on your glass pieces, I would strongly recommend having a professional do this for you. Look in your phone book under Electroplating or Plating to find a local source.
Using Patinas Successfully
I have occasionally seen stained glass work finished with a metallic patina, either copper or gold-like. I have never had success with such patinas; they never hold their original luster for very long. Is there a technique or specific product I need to use? Thanks.
Best results are achieved by first cleaning the solder seams thoroughly. I recommend first washing your piece with CJs Flux and Patina Remover and warm water. Dry it off, and apply a patina. It's a good idea to wear rubber gloves when completing the patination process. Apply the patina to the solder seams using a cotton ball, Q-tip, or gauze. Let it dry for a few minutes, rinse the entire piece with warm water, then pat dry. Examine the solder seams. Does the finish look satisfactory? If not, add a pinch of salt to the patina solution and reapply it to the seams. After this process is completed, polish it with finishing compound (carnuba wax) to both polish and protect the glass and solder seams. Finishing compound leaves a protect film which will help slow down the oxidation process, but won't stop it completely. Oxidation occurs as air particles react with metal surfaces. Gradually over time all metals turn black and have a dull matte finish. It's a natural process. The only way to prevent this is to polish your pieces regularly.
