Fused Glass Cabochon & Silver Jewelry Clay Project

Materials/Equipment:
  • Small Pieces of Colored and Clear Fusible Glass (Delphi Tip: make your cabochon sparkle and use Dichroic glass)
  • Thin-Fire Shelf Paper #7405
  • Kiln #HB120 or #67401
  • Safety Glasses #5163
  • Glass Cutter and Breaking Pliers #5108 and #5068 or Mosaic Nippers #2039
  • PMC+ Silver Clay #67002
  • PMC+ Silver Paste #67003
  • Plus basic Jewelry Clay Tools or the Jewelry Clay Starter Kit #1041
    Optional:
  • 3 lb. Polisher/Tumbler #67010 and 2.5 lb. Stainless Steel Shot Mix #67501

    Directions:
    1. While wearing safety glasses, score glass with the glass cutter and break using breaking pliers, or use mosaic nippers to cut off small pieces of glass.
    2. Cut a piece of thin-fire shelf paper to fit your kiln shelf.
    3. Working on the shelf-paper (on the shelf) stack the glass until it is approximately ¼" thick (2 layers that are 1/8" thick, 4 layers that are 1/16" thick, etc.), placing any black or dark colored pieces on the bottom, and a layer of clear glass at the same COE on the top. Create small "stones" or cabochons approximately ½" to 1" in size.
    4. Place the shelf into the room temperature kiln and begin the firing process. To fire glass in a kiln ramp the temperature up at about 20 degrees per minute until you reach approximately 1500-1600 degrees F. Hold this temperature for about 5 minutes, until the glass is smooth on the surface and the edges are rounded over.
    5. Flash vent the kiln to stop the firing process. To do this open the kiln for a count of about 5 seconds, then close, let the temperature stabilize for a moment, and open again for approximately 5 seconds. Repeat this process until the temperature reads approximately 1100 degrees F. Then close the kiln and turn off the power supply to let the kiln finish cooling. Do not open the kiln during this time until it is below 200 degrees F.
    6. Once cooled, remove the cabochons from the kiln and rinse clean. If there are any sharp points around the edges they can be removed using a glass grinder or an abrasive stone.
    7. Using a portion of your PMC+ clay, create a pendant by either rolling a coil and firmly encircling the cabochon, or by rolling out a section of clay and folding it to create a setting around the cabochon. The creative possibilities are nearly endless. Use the PMC+ Paste to repair any cracks and reinforce any joints.
    8. Add any detailing or other design elements desired.
    9. Let clay dry thoroughly and file to clean up edges. Use a small amount of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab to clean the surface of the cabochon.
    10. Fire in your kiln by bringing the temperature up about 20 degrees F per minute until you reach 1650 degrees F. Hold at this temperature for about 10 minutes, then flash vent to 1100 degrees F as described above. Close the kiln and turn off the power supply to allow projects to cool. Do not open the kiln again until it is below 200 degrees F.
    11. Polish the project with a wire bristle brush to remove any residue left by firing. You may complete the polishing process by placing the pendant into a tumbler with stainless steel shot to produce an even, high gloss finish.

    Note: Firing schedules may vary. Delphi recommends a lower firing temperature when glass is included in the PMC project, as the silver particles in contact with the glass may cause a color shift or "ambering" around the edges. We encourage you to experiment with this schedule while keeping in mind that the longer the PMC+ Silver is fired, the denser the metal becomes, ensuring strength.

    For More Detailed Instruction and Creative Projects See:
    Glass Fusing Made Easy #5981
    This popular fusing instructional and project guide offers clear step-by-step directions, firing schedules and equipment information that makes it fun and easy to create functional hot glass works of art. Projects include picture frames, bowls, clocks, and jewelry. This unique book contains color photos of all projects, 20 full-size patterns, kiln supply list and complete directions and illustrations for each project. Perfect for beginner or intermediate skill levels.
    Introduction to Precious Metal Clay #6289
    This do-it-yourself guide by Mary Ann Devos provides all the information you need to get started and advance to a "master class" level. This easy-to-follow guide explains the clay and tools you will need, as well as showing step-by-step projects with detailed instructions and photos.
    Working with Precious Metal Clay #6318
    50 projects are presented in this comprehensive guide, plus plenty of useful tips for working with silver jewelry clay. Finished items are shown in color; directions are augmented with color illustrations to guide you thought the creative process. Hardcover and spiral bound, this useful guide by Tim McCraight is 127 pages.

    jhaan

    Thursday, April 7, 2011
    57 Posts
    contributor gif delphi associate gif

    You can use the same kiln but not the same kiln shelf. Dedicate one kiln shelf to only PMC.

    glasser

    Thursday, April 7, 2011
    3 Posts
    artist gif participant gif

    You can fire PMC in the same kiln? Won't interfere with fusing glass afterwards? Thought I read somewhere not to use the same kiln. I would be happy if I can use the same one. TIA Pam

    jhaan

    Monday, September 20, 2010
    57 Posts
    contributor gif delphi associate gif

    When glass casting in molds the finished surface is against the mold. This surface is not smooth like the exposed surface we typically think of as the finished surface. A book I would recommend is Glass Kiln Casting with Colour de Verre by Jayne Persico. It contains wonderfull information on casting such as mold prep and care as well as how to finish your piece. You can follow this link to our catalog page http://www.delphiglass.com/fusing/glass-casting/glass-kiln-casting-with-colour-de-verre

    sharon L. c.

    Monday, September 6, 2010
    1 Post

    I purchased the fleur des les mold When I put the frit in the mold the top came out smooth, but the bottom which touches the mold had all of the impressions and it is rough how do I get the impressions on the front? I was going to turn it over and re-fuse the piece to see how that comes out. let me know thanks sharon cunningham