| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
The Coefficient of Expansion (COE) refers to the rate at which glass expands and contracts when heated and cooled. All glass has a COE but we don't always know what it is. It's important that all of the glass you are fusing together expands and contracts at the same rate or stress and cracking can occur. Glass manufactured specifically for fusing is tested for compatibility. Always fuse glass with the same COE or tested compatible glass.
When heating glass to a full fuse (1450° F) it wants to become ¼" thick and round. A standard sheet of glass is approximately 1/8" thick.
In the picture below, notice how the following stacks of glass appear before and after firing.

In the next picture, notice how each cabochon is approximately the same thickness

Viewing the cabochons from the top you can see how the stacks spread when they were fired.

Keeping the ¼" rule in mind with help you achieve the desired effect without growing or shrinking your project.
Glass cannot be heated or cooled too slowly. Heating and cooling too fast can result in cracked glass or thermal shock. Ideally you want your glass to stay approximately the same temperature as the kiln. Because the glass heats more slowly than the kiln, you should consider your project size and how long it will take the piece to "catch up" to the kiln temperature.
Slow, controlled cooling, commonly referred to as annealing, is the process in which you allow the glass to gradually cool down in order to remove internal stresses that may have occurred during the firing process.
Annealing allows the glass to stabilize and adds strength to your finished project.
If your glass breaks in the kiln, your project didn't turn out quite as expected, or you feel the need to add further embellishments to your project, you can re-fire your project until you get the results you desire. For cracked glass some artists add additional pieces of glass to the top of the glass to reinforce and cover the "seam" where the crack occurred. Do not try to re-fire projects with incompatible COEs. Even if the project survives the heating and cooling process the stress remains and the piece can crack or break later.
Key Temperatures in the Firing ProcessThe firing process you select will determine the final appearance of your fired project. Many projects will require multiple firings using different processes before they are complete |
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The photographs below show glass projects with similar embellishments, fused at various temperatures.
Common Firing SchedulesThe schedule that works for you will depend largely on the size, scope and desired look of your finished piece. The firing schedules below will provide a great place to start.
All Kilns are Not Alike
Project Firing LogsUsing a project and firing log to keep track of information about your projects and firing schedules can be an extremely useful tool for every artist. Once you've achieved a good result you can reference the logs to re-create the project or simply re-use a firing schedule for a similar project. Click on the buttons at the top of the page for a copy of this document and a project firing log to get you started. |
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@DelphiAnswers Thanks so much!
@kellbwm Yes, you can fuse anything to itself. You take a risk when fusing untested glass because it s just not formally rated for exposure to such high heats watch out for devitrification and be aware that glass containing more than two colors can be especially temperamental. Proceed with caution.
I have quite a bit of stained glass that is not rated coe. Am I able to fuse it with pieces from the same sheet? For example, I have the #8055 Sky's the Limit Glass Pack. Can I cut two 2" square pieces from the same sheet, stack them, and fuse them together? I would like to also apply one of the black enamel decals. Thanks for your help.
@Charlotte D., for mold repair use bisque fix- item 85017 :)
Does anyone know what kind of glue to use on a ceramic mold for fused glass?
When making cabs I use a 6x6 inch base glass and add my dichroic and top glass, I do a tack fuse with the dichroic and then a full fuse and then a full fuse with the clear topper and sometimes I still get craters. When this happens I clean the crater as much as possible and add the ends of my cab sheets that are too small to use or large pieces of scrap glass, I do a tack fuse add more glass as needed and then a full fuse, if possible I also do the full fuse with the top (clear) side down, any air that is left seems to rise to the back and not the front. Vitek, I had the same problem I watched a beautiful and thick plate crack and fall apart. I put all the pieces into boiling water and then froze then, after thawing the pieces back out I put everything in the tumbler for a couple of hours and out into the garden. It looked pretty and really added some umph to a dark area.
@TheDelphian A couple of years ago when I was getting ready for a show my kiln got sick would only heat up to a tack fuse, it did make some really nice pendants that ended up being a big seller but also taught me something, when I am using frit in jewelry molds I use the biggest pieces possible and I take the glass to a take fuse first, add more frit and take to a second take fuse and then to a full fuse. This really cuts down on any bubbles or hazing in the glass.
@Vitek Sorry to take so long getting back to you. I am very interested in this. Could you e-mail me at [email protected] ? I would like to look at your order so that I can investigate the glass you purchased. Thank you julie
Glass was all System 96 from Delphi. I have left the plate in the mold on the shelf and it has been cracking into more pieces every couple of days. Certainly was stressed in some way. Kinda interesting to check on. Never had this happen before.
When glass has cracked several days after firing it is generally caused by using glass that is not compatible. Review what glass you used and see if they were all of the same COE. Refiring will not fix the problem and trying to use it in another piece would be risky.
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