| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
The Coefficient of Expansion (COE) refers to the rate at which glass expands and contracts when heated and cooled. All glass has a COE but we don't always know what it is. It's important that all of the glass you are fusing together expands and contracts at the same rate or stress and cracking can occur. Glass manufactured specifically for fusing is tested for compatibility. Always fuse glass with the same COE or tested compatible glass.
When heating glass to a full fuse (1450° F) it wants to become ¼" thick and round. A standard sheet of glass is approximately 1/8" thick.
In the picture below, notice how the following stacks of glass appear before and after firing.

In the next picture, notice how each cabochon is approximately the same thickness

Viewing the cabochons from the top you can see how the stacks spread when they were fired.

Keeping the ¼" rule in mind with help you achieve the desired effect without growing or shrinking your project.
Glass cannot be heated or cooled too slowly. Heating and cooling too fast can result in cracked glass or thermal shock. Ideally you want your glass to stay approximately the same temperature as the kiln. Because the glass heats more slowly than the kiln, you should consider your project size and how long it will take the piece to "catch up" to the kiln temperature.
Slow, controlled cooling, commonly referred to as annealing, is the process in which you allow the glass to gradually cool down in order to remove internal stresses that may have occurred during the firing process.
Annealing allows the glass to stabilize and adds strength to your finished project.
If your glass breaks in the kiln, your project didn't turn out quite as expected, or you feel the need to add further embellishments to your project, you can re-fire your project until you get the results you desire. For cracked glass some artists add additional pieces of glass to the top of the glass to reinforce and cover the "seam" where the crack occurred. Do not try to re-fire projects with incompatible COEs. Even if the project survives the heating and cooling process the stress remains and the piece can crack or break later.
Key Temperatures in the Firing ProcessThe firing process you select will determine the final appearance of your fired project. Many projects will require multiple firings using different processes before they are complete |
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The photographs below show glass projects with similar embellishments, fused at various temperatures.
Common Firing SchedulesThe schedule that works for you will depend largely on the size, scope and desired look of your finished piece. The firing schedules below will provide a great place to start.
All Kilns are Not Alike
Project Firing LogsUsing a project and firing log to keep track of information about your projects and firing schedules can be an extremely useful tool for every artist. Once you've achieved a good result you can reference the logs to re-create the project or simply re-use a firing schedule for a similar project. Click on the buttons at the top of the page for a copy of this document and a project firing log to get you started. |
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I'm still very new to fusing and just had an experience that I hope someone can help me with so I don't repeat it again! I was making a blank - full fuse using Bullseye 90 COE glass, according to the fusing schedule that came w/ my kiln. My glass was a clear thin piece, 7x7, topped with a regular 3mm transparent piece of glass 7 1/8 x 7 1/8. When I looked in my kiln just now, it fused perfectly - except for a nice 2" hole just off center! Did I get a bubble? What might have caused it? This was my first time firing a blank that size - I've only fied two other blanks that were 4" square. Also, this was my first time reapplying kiln wash because it was cracking before. I had to lightly sand to try and get it all off before reapplying again.
I would first make sure that the bottle is cleaned well with rubbing alcohol and make sure you are not holding very long at the high temperatures as that is what causes the hazing which is called devitrification. It helps to apply Super Spray (item 7404) prior to fusing to prevent this or you could also apply it after to reverse the devitrification.
Thanks for the tips they really help! But I only have one problem. When I tried to slump a green bottle, I noticed that the bottom by the fold is a little hazy, not shiny. What did I do wrong? JM
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