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How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.
Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.
Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.
Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.
Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.
Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.
Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.
How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).
Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.
Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.
Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.
It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.
What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.
How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.
There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.
I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.
To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.
I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!
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I have used the origami mold and have included the firing schedule. It was done with 2 layers of glass. We feel that one layer of glass will pull in too much and you will not reach the bottom of the mold as this mold has a tendency to do that. We used a slow firing schedule to allow the glass to drop into the mold while maintaining the upper edge. Hope this helps. Origami Bowl Slumping Schedule 4 Segments - GM1414 Skutt Kiln Seg. 1 300 Degrees per hour to 1000 Deg. Soak 10 min. Seg. 2 150 Deg. To 1200 Soak 20 min. Seg. 3 150 to 1225 Soak 30 min. Seg. 4 Full to 900 Soak 30 min.
I recently purchased the 7" origami bowl mold. I have a piece of 96 glass I would like to use. I was wondering if I had to fuse it to a piece of clear (96) or can I slump it with a single layer of the glass. Thanks!
Delphi recommends doing a minimum of four washes with the kiln wash for any mold; (up & down/side to side/diagonal one way, then the next making an “X”) allowing each coat of wash to mostly dry before adding the next. For any casting mold we always suggest the Primo Primer (48325). This product is specifically designed to allow glass to release from the steeper sides and carved details of casting molds, as well as not breaking down at the higher temperatures needed for the glass in casting molds. Standard kiln wash occasionally works for these molds, but because it’s not dependable in this situation using it is risking your glass and your mold. If there is ever an issue or questions on a product or a project, Delphi is here to help. Delphi has a 30 day money back guarantee.
The dish is made with Effetre sheets and millefiori in 104 Coe. We have found that effetre sheets tend to devitrify when going up to those high fusing temperatures. I would start out fusing this using a 90 Coe fusing schedule and use Super Spray to prevent it from devitrifing.
I would like to know what fireing schedule you use for the Clear sheet moretti with the Millifiore's. I have tried a couple but generally make a mess, it appears to not need as much heat. What did you use for the dish shown by the Morettie Sheet glass page. Have lots of Milli's to use. Thanks Helen
Unfortunately the issue is most likely not with your fusing schedule. The main reason this product disappears during the fusing process is because the ink used to print the picture does not contain enough metal. You must have a black and white Laser Jet printer with an ink cartage that contains Iron Oxide . Most commercial printers will say their company can print these off for you, but we have found they do not work, so do not waste your time/money going to a professional print shop. Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the printer cartage you are using in your laser jet printer. (You can ask an office supplies store associate for this sheet which gives you a list of the content of the ink.) The ink must contain iron oxide for the image to remain. The metal content of the ink is what is left behind on the glass to create the image while the other binders/components burn away.
I have recently purchased the photograph paper and have tried firing it with a photo on it and cannot seem to get it to work. I have used my regular Full Fuse, Tack Fuse and Slumping kiln settings and the photo is still disappearing... Has anyone had luck with this and if so, what firing schedule are you using? Any help woud be greatly apprecited! Frustrated in Iowa...
Even if you did use kiln wash on the mold when slumping OVER ceramic molds you MUST MUST MUST use fiber paper as a release not just kiln wash. (2 pieces of thin fire, or 1 pc of thicker fiber paper.) Because of the expansion/contraction difference between ceramic and glass it is best to always slump INTO ceramic, not over…yet we have several molds that break this rule (nightlights, business card, floral slumpers). Using just kiln wash does not allow the extra wiggle room needed to remove glass off of ceramic, the glass has clamped down on to the ceramic during the cooling process. You can break your glass, or break your mold (or both) to remove them from each other. You might try putting the glass/mold back in kiln (flipped) with glass on bottom, (place on kiln washed surface or fiber paper) fire it to slump fuse again hoping that the glass will pull away from the mold if you wish to try to save them both. Good luck!
I need help. I've fused a piece of glass then slumped it over a night light mold. It is STUCK! I'm sure I used kiln wash on the mold before slumping, but it won't budge. Any suggestions?
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