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Fusing Tips

How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.

Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.

Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.


Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.

Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.


Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.

Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.


How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).

Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.


Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.


Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.

It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.


What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.


How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.

There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.


I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.

  • Kiln Shelf
  • Kiln Posts - three or four to place underneath the kiln shelf, and one or two for venting or other purposes
  • Kiln wash
  • Haik brush for applying kiln wash
  • Heat-resistant protective gloves
  • Safety Glasses
  • Lid Lifter - to safely open the lid on larger floor kilns
  • Assortment of compatible glass

To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.


I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!

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Jennifer Bonesteel

Monday, February 23, 2015
Delphi Expert
188 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist

It depends on the effect you'd like to achieve. Generally we'd recommend a clear base with strips placed across it. Firing strips in a mold will only tack fuse the strips to the base layer, however, so you'll retain a lot of texture. If you'll only have two layers of glass you can simply place strips on the base and fire to fuse and then slump. If you want to place strips on their edge and create a thick slab with added depth, that will require the use of a damn mold. It will definitely require some experimenting to get the desired result.

Cheryl G.

Saturday, February 21, 2015
1 Post

Can I place strips of glass on a mold and directly fuse them together to make a large plate? Or do I have to fire them in a dam and then slump them?

Bonnie1021

Thursday, January 8, 2015
3 Posts

@comments2 Thank You, that makes sense!!!

Jennifer Bonesteel

Thursday, January 8, 2015
Delphi Expert
188 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist

@Bonnie1021 Annealing is the process of slowly cooling your glass back to room temperature. If the glass doesn't anneal properly - even after a tack fuse - it can cause stress and breaking in your finished piece. I think adding 30 minutes or so of annealing time to your firing may solve your breakage problem.

Bonnie1021

Saturday, January 3, 2015
3 Posts

sorry, my problem is that . I tack fused 2 pre-cut jewelry pieces together and when I tried to wire wrap them the the base or larger piece broke apart. I have never tack fused anything before. I have a small Jen-ken kiln and the glass was system 96. Shouldn't it have annealed during the tack fuse?

Jennifer Bonesteel

Friday, January 2, 2015
Delphi Expert
188 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist

@Bonnie1021 you anneal small jewelry pieces the same way you anneal large pieces. After your full fuse segment add another segment. Assuming you have a tabletop or a small studio kiln you can cool the kiln as fast as possible to either 900 F (90 COE) or 950 (96 COE) and hold that temperature for 20 - 30 minutes - don't worry you can't anneal too long. For additional tips and firing schedules you can go to www.DelphiGlass.com/glassfusing

Bonnie1021

Wednesday, December 31, 2014
3 Posts

How do I anneal a small jewelry piece that I have tack fused? When I tack fuse my jewelry components they are so fragile that I can not even wire wrap them without breakage.

Jennifer Bonesteel

Friday, December 5, 2014
Delphi Expert
188 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist

@ Lynne S. Are you fusing your two trees together before you slump them? Are you getting a hazy line around the edges of your glass? It may be that your grinder is leaving residue around the edges of your piece. Either wash you piece very thoroughly using a scrub brush or rubbing alcohol. If you must grind we offer a new line of bits that doesn't leave residue. They're called Durabits and that might help.

Lynne S.

Tuesday, November 25, 2014
3 Posts

Thank you Jennifer. We figured out some of our problems. However the edges of the glass after slumping are still a little rough. I held at 1250 for 10 mins. Do you think we are grinding the edges too much or does it need to sit longer. We ramped up slowly and cooled slowly. We are using the christmas tree mold and system 96 glass.

Jennifer Bonesteel

Thursday, November 20, 2014
Delphi Expert
188 Posts
Top Contributor Gallery Artist

@Lynne I'm not entirely clear about a couple of your questions but I will do what I can. I am not understanding the jagged edges - is the mold jagged or the kiln wash? Kiln was on the back of your mold will not hurt anything - it will burn off during firing. I think the dial and the digital box you are referencing are a Pyrometer which is how you set the temperature if you don't have a programmable kiln. You'll want to heat slowly to your target temperature. I'm not sure if flash venting is necessary or not. You can get some additional information at www.DelphiGlass.com/glassfusing. Our customer care center also offers technical support and they would be more than happy to assist you.

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