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How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.
Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.
Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.
Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.
Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.
Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.
Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.
How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).
Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.
Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.
Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.
It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.
What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.
How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.
There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.
I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.
To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.
I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!
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We are using the Christmas tree and heart slumping molds. Following the instructions for times etc. Have put molds in kiln to set kiln wash. First problem is edges are jagged and some of the kiln wash always sticks to the back of the mold. We are using system 96 glass. Also some say when it is time to flash cool, then just turn kiln off. Other instructions have you flash cool then have the kiln reduce the temperatures as indicated on the instructions for slumping. We have a refurbished Paragon kiln. Sorry one more question, there is a dial on the box that is attached to the kiln. Goes from low to high and there is a digital box then attached to that. Not sure what and how to use that dial?? Thanks, Lynne S.
Jennifer Bonesteel
Wednesday, September 3, 2014@Lori J. I can't see any problem with that schedule off the top of my head but, because every kiln is unique, adjustments must sometimes be made. It may be that the glass is cooling too quickly - you could reduce the ramp temperature for slow down or increase the annealing time - it's a pretty thick casting and it can never hurt. The other thing that can cause cracking is incompatible glass. You can use a Stress Tester (item 103399) to determine if stress is the cause.
I have the butter dish mold. Yesterday I did the Base and it cracked. I put in 18 oz. of coe96 glass then fired it using the schedule that was on the web site. I've done this a few times and ended up cracking the one mold. I've looked at it at full fuse and looks good, and I've looked at it once it cooled down and has shut down and good then but crack once its completely cool. Fired again and didn't look until completely cooled down still cracked. I don't know what else to do here. Have a few people wanting one.
Jennifer Bonesteel
Tuesday, July 29, 2014@Janelle K. Great Question! If you are using MR-97 you simply need to spray on 4 thin coats the first time you use a mold then another thin coat each time there after. Allowing the mold to simply sit for a few minutes until it's dry is sufficient, there is no need to heat it in an oven or a kiln. If you are spraying a texture mold or a holey mold be sure to turn your mold a quarter turn between sprays (on the original and subsequent coats) in order to get a bit of spray on all sizes of the post / texture. If you are using a brush on primer - like Primo Primer or other kiln wash - after applying a few coats to your mold you can 1) patiently let your mold dry over night until all of the release is dry OR pop it in an oven to speed up the process so that you can get going - either way is totally fine, just make sure your primer is totally dry or it can cause sticking.
I have purchased several molds and am finally getting around to prepping them for use. One of the direction sheets included suggested pre-firing @ 90F/hr up to 1470F, with no holding time and to let it cool on it's own. Other molds do not have any directions at all, but I was told by a sales person to just pray on the mold release and heat in oven to 400F after it had dried for 20 minutes. Do I need to pre-fire my molds? They are all pretty small. None of them are more than 30cm in size. I'm excited about all the possibilities with the molds but, frankly, am a bit intimidated and don't want to ruin them (or the glass) right off the bat. Janelle
I had to drill a small hole in the poinsettia mold too. Now it works great. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner
@aglassact303 NEVER MIND all, drilled the holes, 5, 1.5" from each corner and one in the middle. SUCCESS. Please pass the word.
@comments2 I need help. I have purchased three of the Creative Paradise molds and used the schedules provided. The Art Nouveau rectangle is producing perfect pieces. But the larger round floral and the Tree of Life are creating large bubbles. Complete failures. The large bubbles are bursting or just deflated. Do you think drilling holes in the mold will help. The instructions do not indicate this is necessary. I have tried their fusing schedule as well as going slower. What about not going as high in final temp, 1470. Maybe 1400 or 1350? Please help
@StaceysLawnDecor I bought three of these beautiful textured mold. My first was the Art Neveau rectangle. Two layers of 96coe and used the tutorial fusing schedule. Perfect, two beautiful pieces and zero issues. But now with the Tree of Life and the Round Floral molds I have had complete failure. Ruining glass like crazy. Did you have any success? I am considering drilling some air holes.
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