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It depends on the effect you'd like to achieve. Generally we'd recommend a clear base with strips placed across it. Firing strips in a mold will only tack fuse the strips to the base layer, however, so you'll retain a lot of texture. If you'll only have two layers of glass you can simply place strips on the base and fire to fuse and then slump. If you want to place strips on their edge and create a thick slab with added depth, that will require the use of a damn mold. It will definitely require some experimenting to get the desired result.

Can I place strips of glass on a mold and directly fuse them together to make a large plate? Or do I have to fire them in a dam and then slump them?

@pphx Molds are fine to use with 90 COE (Bullseye) or 96 COE. The COE does not affect how the mold works. If you want to use frit between layers of 96 COE glass you must use 96 COE frit or stress fractures can occur. You can always use a clear overcoat to help prevent devitrification but System 96 glass generally does not devitrify so you may find it unnecessary.

I am just beginning to purchase Uroboros COE 96 streakie glass. Are molds that are typically used for COE 90 glass OK to use? If I am using clear frit powder between the layers can I use Bullseye frit, or must I get COE frit? Can I use the clear overcoat to prevent devit? Thanks.

@istrobin the back side of the glass - the one that touches the shelf paper, kiln wash or mold - will always come out with a duller, rougher finish than the glass not touching anything else. There is no real way to prevent the glass from dulling where it touches another surface.

I am new to fusing glass. I have used kiln paper and I have used kiln wash, my pieces come out rough on the back. How do you prevent that from happening/ Thanks

In order to answer your question I fired an already fired piece with a decal in a microwave kiln. It heats much faster and gets very hot - I fired it almost to a full fuse and it came out fine so I'd say it's worth a try. Good luck!

@shahriarir the temperature can vary - if you solder faster you can go hotter. Generally speaking I'd start between 700-800 degrees F.

@Rzwerdling ideally you would use three pieces of rebar - one in the center and two more - one between the center and the top, the other between the center and the bottom.

When using an adjustable soldering iron, such as Hakko, what is the best temperature for 40/60 solder?