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@Diane6520 I think the sheet you are referring to is referring to glass separator, otherwise known as kiln wash. Molds should always be kiln washed with a glass separator to prevent sticking. For slumping you don't necessarily need Primo Primer but the application method is the same for regular kiln wash. You can watch a video about it on ArtGlassTV using the link below: http://www.delphiglass.com/video_view?vid=Ng-6BxK8X04 After that you simply balance your glass on the mold and use a standard slumping schedule. For more basic information about fusing firing schedules you can visit the link below: http://www.DelphiGlass.com/glassfusing Unfortunately we don't have a Dealer location in your area but if you look on the Yellow Pages and search Art Glass you will find a few results and may be able to find the help you need. I hope that helps you get started - if not, feel free to call our customer service team - they will be more than happy to assist you.

@Emma V. I have made two curved projects lately and was assisted by my husband. He took measurements from the curved parts of my pattern and laid out the curve on a quarter inch piece of plywood. He then carefully cut the circle about 1 1/2 inches wide. I then tacked it to my pattern layout board. Works beautifully.

@jhaan

Currently working on a large round Start of David. it will be about 4 diameter round (Came on perimeter and copper foil on interior What is best way to hang/ reinforce it? might be about 30 lbs? Thank you Ron Z

Can you re-fire decals? I'm thinking about firing several small pieces with decals on them for use with larger projects later.

Hello: I'm been fusing for a while now, but recently purchased the Earring Mold Set to make glass hoops. There was no instruction sheet, and the small scrap of paper mentioned "seperator glass". I don't know how to use this mold and also don't know what "seperator glass" is. My kiln is a 8" Evenheat Studio Pro. Can anybody help me here with the mold or point me to a teacher locally? I live in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Thanks for any help. Diane Miller

@comments2 Thank You, that makes sense!!!

@Bonnie1021 Annealing is the process of slowly cooling your glass back to room temperature. If the glass doesn't anneal properly - even after a tack fuse - it can cause stress and breaking in your finished piece. I think adding 30 minutes or so of annealing time to your firing may solve your breakage problem.

sorry, my problem is that . I tack fused 2 pre-cut jewelry pieces together and when I tried to wire wrap them the the base or larger piece broke apart. I have never tack fused anything before. I have a small Jen-ken kiln and the glass was system 96. Shouldn't it have annealed during the tack fuse?

@Bonnie1021 you anneal small jewelry pieces the same way you anneal large pieces. After your full fuse segment add another segment. Assuming you have a tabletop or a small studio kiln you can cool the kiln as fast as possible to either 900 F (90 COE) or 950 (96 COE) and hold that temperature for 20 - 30 minutes - don't worry you can't anneal too long. For additional tips and firing schedules you can go to www.DelphiGlass.com/glassfusing