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Reinforcing Stained Glass Windows Comment

by Tina/Larry on Aug 27, 2012

1 Post

When using a steel reinforcing bar, do you cement first or after the bar is soldered?

Pattern Preparation Comment

by nthammond1302160557 on Aug 26, 2012

2 Posts

Questioin from a newbe: When designing a PATTERN using bevel clusters, do you need to leave space between the individual bevel pieces to allow for the lead came?

Fusing Tips Comment

by BigSkyDichroic on Aug 25, 2012

1 Post

Hello Delphi Helper! When I remove my glass from a mold the surface has a matt finish. What is the best way to get that glossy look back? Thanks!

Cutting Tips Comment

by divaofsun3 on Aug 12, 2012

1 Post

I would like the plans to the light box. Please email to [email protected] Thank you

Fuseworks Q & A Comment

by belmore on Aug 05, 2012

8 Posts

@Lunasarthur You need to use a bubble squeeze in your program. This will usually allow the top glass to "outgas" before the two fuse together. Try going slowly through the temperatures from 1175 to 1250, maybe taking 45 minutes for small pieces.

Fuseworks Q & A Comment

by comments3 on Jul 26, 2012

47 Posts

1. Place a stack of newspaper on a flat work surface. **Wear safety glasses.** Grip the mold firmly in one hand and bang it upside down (and levelly) in the center of the stack of the newspaper. Don t be too delicate about it. A few good whacks often will release the glass. 2. If the above doesn t work, try placing the mold in the freezer for an hour or two. Retrieve it from the freezer and immediately repeat the above process while it is cold. 3. If this still doesn t release the glass, sometimes soaking the entire mold in a bath of hot/warm water will allow the wash to dissolve and will help loosen the glass in the mold. It may need to soak only a few minutes, or may take several hours. Periodically the mold can be removed from the water and banged on the newspaper to attempt to pop the glass free. With any luck, by this point the glass has popped loose and you can cold-work any burrs off the glass to finish the project. If the mold had to be submerged in water to free the glass, it is essential that it is allowed to dry completely before it is re-washed and used again. Note: any of these techniques may cause the glass and/or the mold to crack or break. I also emailed this information to you along with more details on why this happens. Good luck and I hope it comes out.

Fuseworks Q & A Comment

by bmoore2214 on Jul 13, 2012

2 Posts

I purchased one of the jewlery molds and kiln washed it before use. I put in the glass frit and fused it following the recommended firing schedule, but the glass will not release from the mold. Any suggestions?

Fusing Tips Comment

by Lolaglass on Jun 08, 2012

1 Post

I slumped a beautiful 8" bowl, but the bottom came out rounded, I put it back in the kiln and slumped at a slower rate, it came out ok, not as rounded, but not like the mold. I tried it a second time with another 8" piece of glass, but set my kiln at a really slow mode, it came out the same way the first bowl came out, a rounded bottom. How can I slump a bowl and have it come out right the first time?? Thanks!! Lola

Fusing Tips Comment

by gilsglasscontac on Jun 07, 2012

1 Post

After I have TAC fused my weaved sushi plates, sometimes I have to grind the edges to make them even. This requires me to put them back in the kiln to "fire polish" the ground edges. After that is completed, I put them back in the kiln for slumping. Can I combine the sumping and fire polishing in one fireing?

Fusing Tips Comment

by mlag55 on Jun 04, 2012

1 Post

I made a beautiful bowl using the 6-1/2" bowl mold. Now I want to flatten the bottom of it so that it doesn't wobble but I don't want to change the shape of the bowl at all. What is the best way to do this?

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