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@krisd This question is subjective and depends on the size of the project, the type of glass being used, what kiln is being used, etc. When I fuse I typically ramp up all projects except my jewelry cabochons at 200* F an hour. Whichout knowing what your kiln settings are for Fast, Medium and Slow that is harder to answer. The other part of this is that the end temperature is what really helps define the end results. A basic tack fuse is around 1340* F again, depending on your kiln it might be a bit lower or higher, it will take some trial and error to find the perfect temperature for each kiln.

The glass will actually all be the same thickness once fused. Glass likes to be 1/4" thick so it will shrink to make that happen. The edges and center will pull in equally to get to that magic number.

The short answer is yes you can use zinc. However, over time, the moisture will break down the metal. This most likely will not happen right away. Zinc over time exposed to moisture will often turn white and oxidize. Lead actually would handle that much better.

@raeglas18 Yes, you will want to use reinforcement with these pieces. Our stained glass expert prefers Strong Line Flexible Steel Reinforcement, item

I'm tack fusing small panels, (4x7 90 coe) the bottom clear glass is 3mm, and I'm stacking a few pieces 1 to 3mm high. So in some parts, it is over 6 mm. I have it at a tack fuse 90 medium speed. (which is what is says on my Evenheat kiln preprogrammed) I usually do a tack fuse 90 fast speed, but since these are a bit thicker, I am using a medium speed. However, it seems it reached a high temp, faster than the "fast" speed would have. I'm hoping this will still be a tack fuse by the time its done. So, my question is, if I use more than 6 mm thickness, how should i tack fuse this? Fast, medium or slow?

Hello! I am creating to larger pieces, I have never made anything so large before. One will be 26x18 and the other 56x17. Do I need to install reinforcement to these pieces? What do you recommend I use for reinforcement? Thank you for the help!

@ To assemble the glass, you can opt to use zinc H channel came if the design works well with a rigid came (few curved pieces). If your design is more intricate or has more organically shaped pieces, assembly with lead came or copper foil would be suggested. The lead free came that is flexible has a low melting temperature and unfortunately cannot be combined with zinc came or other lead-free solders which require a higher working temperature.

@ The Canfield Diamond Lead Free Came you reference we only offer in an H channel, which is ideal for using between glass pieces to assemble a project. This came has a unique working temperature range, and can only be used with the matching solder from Canfield as shown together at https://www.delphiglass.com/lead-came-supplies/lead-free-came/Alternatively, we do offer zinc came which can be used with any lead-free solder, and it is available in both H channel to assemble glass pieces and U channel to apply a border. Zinc came unfortunately is a rigid metal, which can make it more challenging to use in designs that have curves.

@scukr If you are able to use a piece of copper wire around the entire perimeter with the rings formed as part of the wire length, it can be soldered into the foil to form a strong outside bead. If that would be too bulky of a look for the design, forming rings from wire that have "tails" on them that can be soldered into the foil.

@ For a large project that wouldn't have the reinforcement of a frame, it is important to make sure that the design avoids having any hinge points, and to provide the strongest outside border possible. If you opt to complete the project with came, be sure to stretch the U channel well that you are using for the outside border, and run it in long continuous pieces (try to avoid any unnecessary cuts). At each point that the interior came or solder lines connects with the border be sure to solder from both the front and back side to attached the U channel came securely. If you prefer to complete the project with copper foil, applying a length of ball chain, twisted wire, or even regular copper or pre-tinned wire around the outside will help add strength. To do this, you can solder the project together and tin the outside edges, then simply apply the reinforcement as a single piece around the outside and solder it in place to form a nice bead around the perimeter.