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I want to foil a geode slice for jewelry making and attach jump rings to it. How can I make the jump rings secure enough to include in a jewelry piece, e.g., bracelet?

@ We're so thrilled to hear you are enjoying your Fuseworks Microwave Kiln! The Fuseworks Microwave Kiln is available in one size only, but can be purchased separately from the kit as item number 424849. If you have damaged the kiln base or lid and wish to replace the damaged piece only, replacements can special ordered by phone or online - just request item number 424849B for the base, or 424849T for the lid. Unfortunately, a kiln repair cement likely won't allow you to repair the base of a microwave kiln properly. If the damage is minimal, you may be able to simply avoid positioning glass over the divot and continue using the base.

@ A trick I learned from our expert lead instructor is that for sharply angled points it can sometimes be difficult to cut as a single cut. To achieve the sharp corners, cut the came slightly longer than needed. Using lead nippers, make cuts to separate the "heart" of the came from both "faces" of the came. Cut the faces of the came to the length and angle needed to fit your pattern, then trim the heart of the came to match the shortest edge of your angle cut. It should now assemble neatly to join your pieces.

@ The beauty of stained glass is that there is no consideration of COE - which means you can use any glass that you like. The thickness of some styles of glass can pose some challenges to assembly. If the glass you have selected is particularly thick, you may need to use a wider copper foil tape to properly capture the edge, if the glass is thin, you may do best to plate it (layer it) with another layer such as a clear float glass to give the best strength in your project.

@ When filling a casting mold with frit, some bubbles are likely. The finer the frit, the more tiny bubbles you are likely to entrap - therefore when you want the best clarity possible, it's best to use coarse frit, or even nipped up chunks of glass. If you wish to eliminate as many bubbles as possible, you may want to essentially introduce a "bubble squeeze" in your firing schedule. For castings of this thickness, this may mean you reduce your ramp rate once you've reached 1000 degrees F to a rate of 50 degrees per hour from 1000 degrees until you reach 1200 degrees, then you can return to a faster ramp rate until you reach your process temperature.

@eugeneosentoski There isn't a one-size-fits-all answer to this question unfortunately. For large projects, a rigid (zinc, brass or copper) came border will add considerable support and strength to your art to help ensure it doesn't bow over time. For smaller projects, the came becomes less necessary, but still never a bad choice to include. The wood frame and installation strips will help support the project, and may be all that's needed for some smaller projects. I would encourage you to err on the side of longevity by installing a came border if there's any question.

@ Colour de Verre has a very helpful tip sheet for creating their snowflakes. If you are following along with their firing schedules but still getting sharp burrs,there are a few possible culprits. Most commonly, they are caused by the firing temperature being a bit too high - not all kilns heat the same and evenly, so you may need to reduce the top temperature to work in your kiln. Additionally, some artists find they get the best results by trying to fill the molds so that it is heaped in the center. To do this, you can fill the mold evenly, then gently use a brush to move the frit at the edges of the design, piling it into the center of each area. Hopefully these tips help, the Colour de Verre project guide can be found at https://images.delphiglass.com/assets/Snowflake PDF-219720.pdf

@ for a 25-1/2" x 31-1/2" panel, reinforcement is usually recommended. This can be in the form of copper reinforcing strip or steel reinforcing strip run through the panel, or zinc rebar applied to the "back side" of the panel. When installing against and existing window, it is suggested that you leave a small space between the panels, and to complete the installation in a manner that won't trap any moisture. Because of this, many artists will use rebar to reinforce the panel, then position the panel so that the rebar is facing the existing window.

@ Liva Polish, Stained Glass Finishing Compound, and liquid carnauba wax are comparable products that can be used for polishing your stained glass. Only one of these products needs to be used as they all serve the same purpose.

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