| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
| Stained Glass • Fusing • Mosaics • Classes |
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Lead Stretcher Quantity: 1 |
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6" Layout Block System Quantity: 1 |
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22" Wide Piper's Pattern Paper Quantity: 1 |
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16" x 20" Bullseye French Vanilla Opal Thin - 90 COE Quantity: 1 |
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12" x 12" Oceanside Dubai Chocolate Fusers Reserve Opa.. Quantity: 1 |
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3380 E. Jolly RdLansingMI48910
(800) 248-2048
by Cocoa P. on Nov 14, 2010
I want to purchase 9 premade bevels to fit the opening in my front door. However, I won't be able to remove the existing glass and will have to attach it someway to the existing glass. The stiles between the windows are probably too small to use a wood frame to hold it in. Does anyone have any suggestions or instructions for a do it yourself job like this? And forgive a really stupid question - would these clear bevels go in the inside or the outside of the door? Thanks for any direction anyone can provide. :-)
by jhaan on Nov 08, 2010
It is possible that the final temperature you fused to was too hot or the hold or soak time may have been too long. Since the kiln wash is sticking to the glass it is possible that the ramp speed is too fast. There are a number of things which will effect the glass in different ways. You can use kiln shelf paper to line the kiln shelf. This will not stick like the wash can at times. Keep a record of your firing schedule and remember, each kiln heats a little differently. Observing what your glass is doing at different temps will help you to know your kiln so you can achieve the results you are after. Feel free to call our customer service department with any questions you have. Someone will be happy to help you! Delphi Experts are Here to Help Contact Customer Service at (800) 248-2048 mon-fri 9-6, sat 9-5, sun 12-5 EST
by vernawhite1 on Nov 08, 2010
What is the answer to question # 5 above
by radicalrecycks on Nov 01, 2010
I am new to fusing and I'm using glass bottles but want to keep the center open is there a tool that I can put in the center of my glass to so that is will for a "o" but safe to put in the kiln while not fusing to the glass? Thx. Tracie
by elementsglass on Oct 27, 2010
Previously, when using bullseye and a wax form I calculated the glass using specific gravity. what is that calculation for spectrum?
by jhaan on Oct 26, 2010
Are you using Primo Primer for the mold preparation? Because of the ridges and the depth of the mold sometimes the glass can get caught and stick to the mold which will cause cracking.
by jhaan on Oct 26, 2010
If you are cutting an inch or more off you could score it with a glass cutter and use running pliers. If it is less than an inch you will or may need to use a saw.
by MaryJBR on Oct 25, 2010
I have to cut a 4 x 4 square bevel for my panel...what's the best way to cut a bevel?
by fraufeite on Oct 22, 2010
I am trying to slump into a soap dish. I have tried it 4 times and my piece is cracked every time it is done. The crack is a straight edge....which makes me believe that it cracks AFTER it initially slumps. I do not know how/where to adjust my firing schedule to help it. Any ideas? Thanks, Ta
by charlaatd on Oct 20, 2010
Regarding the hole in the middle of a fusing slab. I have learned that this is more common with 96 coe glass, used on top of kiln wash. It will happen to any glass but 96 is usually the cuprit. It is an air bubble that grew until it burst, this is usually caused by the glass sticking just a bit to the shelf, if I understood correctly. The problem is easily solved by using shelf paper instead of kiln wash.