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I am making a leaded glass window using pencil bevels.  When I draw the pattern I trace around the bevel then add 1/16 for the came heart.  Is there a better way to do this?

problem: proper way to put oil in studio pro or any cutters. even the smallest amount seems to leak out thru sides. this is for student work. Is it even necessary to use oil? Thanx for any tips-the kids keep blowing thru cutters, heads, etc. while trying to learn. Lori

The BEST way to cut zinc came is with a Came Saw/Chop Saw (Delphi item numbers: 84120/7990/7355DT) This gives you a quick clean cut with little effort and the ability to do large quantities and similar angle cuts with ease. Next best is the Precision Saw (5050) with the clean cut Miter Vise (7159) - this takes a little elbow grease, but you'll still get nice cuts.

What is the best way to cut zinc came?

You can use either method. Zinc rebar attached to the back of the piece will do the trick…but might interfere with the aesthetics of the panel. If you have the time and skill to take apart the piece (at 18” intervals across the width) to insert steel line reinforcement to the lead lines/solder, in the end it not only will give the extra strength needed but may be more aesthetically appealing.

A friend of mine asked me to repair sagging panels in a bookcase that are 1'x4'.  Would I just flatten the panel and attach the reinforcing bar?  I always assumed you put reinforcement inside the solder lines of the piece. 

Thank-You Julie for your advise , I'm going to try it again  Deb

Hi Deb, I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. S lumping over ceramic is challenging!  Ceramic molds are nice because of  their cost factor over stainless steel.  However, the problem is the way that ceramic reacts to heat and cooling.  Generally you should slump "into" ceramic and slump or drape "over" stainless steel. The reason for this is that glass can shrink tightly around the clay. When using the ceramic molds for draping, it is important to use at least a 1/8" fiber paper and to use a schedule that will give you a loose drape.  Do this by watching the glass after it has reached the draping temp of 1150 degrees - 1250 degrees F. Keep a journal of all of your firing schedules so you know what works and what doesn't. All kilns heat differently, the only way to know what works in your kiln is to watch what is happening. Remember, don't open the kiln while it is moving into the annealing zone as this will result in cracking.

Great! Beeswax works for this as well. :)

I need help ,I purchased the small ceramic vase slumper mold ,I've kilned washed it . First attempt was to make a small candle holder ,using 2 peices of glass offset ,fired to book beginners guide to kiln fired glass pg45.The result was glass stuck and cracked.Next time I used 2 peices of kiln paper ,slowed down the fire schedule same result.Third time I used 3 peices of kiln paper changed the fire schedule completely very slow with the same result. Can anyone help?  I've done some reading on the net and it was suggested that the mold will cool at a slower rate- therefore glass cracking.   Thanks Deb