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Fuseworks Q & A Comment

by TheDelphian on Jun 30, 2010

25 Posts

Glass when it's hot wants to be a 1/4" thick. Single sheet glass is generally 1/8" thick; therefore when you heat it up it will shrink up to try and attain a 1/4" thickness. If you have several layers of glass together (over 1/4" thickness), when fused it will spread out to be a 1/4" thick. It is recommended if you want to keep your shape/design without this shrinking/spreading distortion you should start with a project that is already 1/4" as it goes into the kiln - approximately two standard sheets of glass thick.

Fuseworks Q & A Comment

by bettymillen on Jun 29, 2010

1 Post

Should dicro glass be fired at a different temperature?  All my dicro that is fused by themselves shrink.  What am I doing wrong?

3 Posts

I have a couple of questions to ask about your panel first.  Is it going to be installed into an opening in a wall or door?  Is it going to be free hanging in front of an existing window?  Is it on an exterior wall exposed to the elements?  These are the various factors that have to be considered before deciding on the best construction method and reinforcing.  Copper foil windows are usually quite stiff and work well for interior panels.  The size of the panel that you are working on is not too large that the reinforcing strips should work fine.  The exception would be if your panel were in a door that was used a lot, especially an exterior door then you would want more substantial reinforcing.  Generally for reinforcing you would run the strips the shortest distance; about every 18".  You certainly could reinforce your panel a couple of times, at 10" and 20", without it being overkill.  Let us know if you have more questions.  Good luck. 

2 Posts

i use and recomend a Taurus 3 saw fantastic for small work check out some of my fused jewellery www.firehorseglass.co.nz

2 Posts

hi i use rubber cement like the push bike tyre shops use for repairing punctures, it is water proof and lasts stuck until the end of mu cutting i have a taurus 3 saw, the template just rolls off after cutting fantastic check www.firehorseglass.co.nz

1 Post

I chose to use the foil method instead of lead came for my 30" x 18" window panel and am now considering the best way to reinforce it: horizontally as I would for a leaded window, or vertically as was suggested by another artisan.  I have the metal/copper reinforcing strips.  Also, I'm now wondering if using foil was a good decision, so I need to know if it is possible to use lead came over the foil or would I have to unwrap each piece?

Fusing Tips Comment

by Eclecticity on Jun 09, 2010

28 Posts

I just got my Delphi 15 6 EZ Pro kiln and have had some trouble with the clear base glass, which I thought was also 90 COE as is the glass pieces placed on it. When I finished the programmed schedule for 90 COE FUSE, there were big bubble holes where there was no layer. What do you recommend in the 90 COE for the base clear glass? Is there something else I'm doing wrong?

Reinforcing Stained Glass Windows Comment

by TheDelphian on Jun 02, 2010

25 Posts

Even with sandwiching in between clear glass I would recommend the standard horizontal reinforcement from one side to the other at 18" intervals up the piece.

Reinforcing Stained Glass Windows Comment

by stevencross on Jun 01, 2010

1 Post

I've been asked to do a side light that measures 6ft tall by 11-1/2 inches wide. For a couple of reasons I am thinking about sandwiching the panel between two other panels of clear glass.  Would I still need to use re-inforcing and if so, how much?

Lead Came Assembly Comment

by jhaan on May 24, 2010

57 Posts

  This tip comes from one of our Delphi Experts. She uses a marker with a 1/16" tip,such as our #5172 black marker, to trace around the bevel. Line the next bevel up on the outer edge of the traced line from the previous bevel. This will give you the spacing you need without having to measure.

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