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Thanks for the help with the origami bowl.   I'll give it a try this weekend! Judy

  40 Watts is hot enough to solder.  The question is what type of soldering are you wanting to do. The higher the wattage the longer the iron will maintain its heat.  So, if you  want to solder a long bead for say, a stained glass piece, you would need this higher wattage.  However, if you only need to solder a small area, such as a leaded joint or jewelry pieces, the lower wattage could be used.  

  I have used the origami mold and have included the firing schedule.  It was done with 2 layers of glass. We feel that one layer of glass will pull in too much and you will not reach the bottom of the mold as this mold has a tendency to do that.  We used a slow firing schedule to allow the glass to drop into the mold while maintaining the upper edge.  Hope this helps.   Origami Bowl Slumping Schedule 4 Segments - GM1414 Skutt Kiln Seg. 1 300 Degrees per hour to 1000 Deg. Soak 10 min. Seg. 2 150 Deg. To 1200 Soak 20 min. Seg. 3 150 to 1225 Soak 30 min. Seg. 4 Full to 900 Soak 30 min.

I recently purchased the 7" origami bowl mold.  I have a piece of 96 glass I would like to use.  I was wondering if I had to fuse it to a piece of clear (96) or can I slump it with a single layer of the glass. Thanks!    

What is the minimum wattage you need for soildering ?   I have a 40 Watt, is that good enough ?  

Delphi recommends doing a minimum of four washes with the kiln wash for any mold; (up & down/side to side/diagonal one way, then the next making an “X”) allowing each coat of wash to mostly dry before adding the next. For any casting mold we always suggest the Primo Primer (48325). This product is specifically designed to allow glass to release from the steeper sides and carved details of casting molds, as well as not breaking down at the higher temperatures needed for the glass in casting molds. Standard kiln wash occasionally works for these molds, but because it’s not dependable in this situation using it is risking your glass and your mold. If there is ever an issue or questions on a product or a project, Delphi is here to help.  Delphi has a 30 day money back guarantee.

The dish is made with Effetre sheets and millefiori in 104 Coe.  We have found that effetre sheets tend to devitrify when going up to those high fusing temperatures. I would start out fusing this using a 90 Coe fusing schedule and use Super Spray to prevent it from devitrifing.

I would like to know what fireing schedule you use for the Clear sheet moretti with the Millifiore's.  I have tried a couple but generally make a mess, it appears to not need as much heat.  What did you use for the dish shown by the Morettie Sheet glass page. Have lots of Milli's to use. Thanks Helen

Unfortunately the issue is most likely not with your fusing schedule. The main reason this product disappears during the fusing process is because the ink used to print the picture does not contain enough metal. You must have a black and white Laser Jet printer with an ink cartage that contains Iron Oxide . Most commercial printers will say their company can print these off for you, but we have found they do not work, so do not waste your time/money going to a professional print shop. Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the printer cartage you are using in your laser jet printer. (You can ask an office supplies store associate for this sheet which gives you a list of the content of the ink.) The ink must contain iron oxide for the image to remain. The metal content of the ink is what is left behind on the glass to create the image while the other binders/components burn away.   

I have recently purchased the photograph paper and have tried firing it with a photo on it and cannot seem to get it to work.  I have used my regular Full Fuse, Tack Fuse and Slumping kiln settings and the photo is still disappearing... Has anyone had luck with this and if so, what firing schedule are you using?  Any help woud be greatly apprecited!   Frustrated in Iowa...