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Just a question or two - what is the best way to use Mica powder?  Is there a special technique to using it?  also, my kiln has sides elements and lid elements,  when do you recommend using the lid elements?   Thanks so much for any help on this.

I tried chapstick and vaseline at other's recommendations.  I also tried letting the Sharpies or paint markers dry before cutting.  None of those methods worked for me.  Then I covered my lines with scotch tape or clear packing tape.  Works like a charm!  I was told on another Glass Blog that the tape would gum up my bandsaw.  I figure it can't be any worse than chapstick or vaseline and probably much better.  Tape does not make my water cloudy like chapstick does.  I have used this method for two years and my bandsaw is fine.  I would love to know if anybody has used the tape method and if it harmed their saw.

For the pattern markings disappearing during cutting with a circle or band saw, try a little , vaseline on the lines to keep it water proof.

Delphi does sell those decals, they're the Fuseworks Fuse Art Decals-specifically the Floral pack (427867). If you wanted to create your own words/lettering you could also use the Creative Images Color Slide (8303) or the Fusing Photo Paper (8301). 

A Decal question. I saw a couple of pendants that had fused decals on them ut they also had lettering that looked like it was a decal of some type. Does delphi sell these lettering decals or where can I get them. The pendants said hope, inspire and dream. Sorry if I have posted in wrong place

You said in the other comment that you were using fine frit...the "pitting" is from the air bubbles that are trying to escape and popping on the surface. The finner the frit, the greater your possibility for bubbles/pitting. This is from air getting trapped between the small particles of glass. Using medium or course grit frit will help reduce the "pitting" effect. Temperature also plays a role in creating bubbles. Slowing your ramp rate down and not "over cooking" your glass will help reduce the pitting/bubbles. Ramp at 300 degrees per hour up to 1450, hold for 15-20 mins. When cooling, don't forget to hold at 970 to anneal.

Somehow my earlier comment ended up in a discussion about band saws, hope I get it right this time. What is the cause of surface pitting?  Some of my 1x1 tiles get it, other times not.  Seems like there are so many variables! Frit size, kiln temps?

I thought I was getting dialed in on a tile making project I have been doing but intermittently my 1 x1 tiles have some surface pitting.  What causes surface pitting?  Even tiles with no apparent  bubbles sometimes get it.   I am using a fairly fine frit.   Is it true that the finer the frit  the worse the bubbles?      

It helps to let the marker dry a little bit before applying the Mark Stay.  It is more important to let it dry if you are using a paint-type marker.  I usually mark my glass and then let it dry for about 20 minutes before applying a liberal amount of Mark Stay.  Waiting 20 minutes for the marker to dry is a lot like watching paint dry so I will draw the patterns on a variety of pieces and while they are drying I cut the easy pieces that do not require the saw.  This helps with water based markers also but sometimes it will just lift off with the water.  I generally have better success with the paint markers. 

What size frit are you using? The smaller the frit size the more "cloudy" or frosted it will look. Smaller frit captures more air between the pieces creating tiny little air bubbles which make the glass cloudy in appearance. Try using coarse frit or actual chunks of broken sheet glass…as long as it fits in the mold, and see if that solves your problem. Using a slower ramp rate when heating the glass will also help, this allows more time for the air to escape from in-between the pieces.