Creating Lifelike Flowers

How To Create Lifelike Flowers with Bullseye Glass

This piece was surprisingly easy to make; the flower and leaves were cut and ground to fit, while everything else was cut with our handy mosaic nipper, #2039.

For added realism, use a streaky opal glass for the flowers. Cut the pieces so the darker areas of glass create the dark "mask" in the center of each pansy.

Cut and glue the border and flowers in place, then fill in the background as needed. In this example, the artist used lighter pieces of the background glass next to the flowers, and darker background glass at the edges to create the illusion of a spotlight on the flowers.



Tuesday, July 17, 2018
4 Posts

@nancy o.


Tuesday, August 4, 2009
1 Post

Nancy, I would reccomend a fume trap that has both the foam filter and the activative charcoal filter.The foam filter can be removed to cleaned ( rinse with water and dry before replacing). Think of the foam filter removing the big impurities and the carbon filter removing smaller impurities. We carry the Portable Fume Trap with a charcoal filter and the Hakko Fume Trap with a foam and carbon filter. Thanks for your question, Steena @ Delphi.

nancy o.

Monday, August 3, 2009
1 Post

I would like to hear from anyone who uses a bench top solder fume extractor.  I am confused as to the filters the different brands of extractor use.  For instance Inland uses an activated carbon filter, while the  Smoke Absorber Filter for Aoyue  Fume Extractor seems to be just foam...... some brands refer to them as carbon actibated filters, which has left me pretty confused as to what to buy, and which replacemetn filters to choose..... Can anyone shed some light on all this, please?  NANCY


Friday, July 31, 2009
1 Post

How long did your glass stay in the 1300's?  That's the dreaded divit zone....too much time there will cause divit (gritty/dull, just plain ugly).  You can probably still salvage these cabs providing any dichroic glass has a clear cap.  Etch them, spray with an anit-divit spray, then fire polish them.   Another possibility is that the glass wasn't squeaky clean when you put it in the kiln.  I'm guessing that it's divit, but dirty glass can cause a haze that sometimes feels slightly rough.  Hope this helps!! 


Wednesday, July 15, 2009
2 Posts

 Sometimes if the glass holds to long at high temps, it can get that gritty look and can cause deventrification. Make sure your ramp schedule allows for this. For example, when I am doing small pieces only, I don't need a long ramp time: 1500 to 1500 hold for 10 minutes; asap/full to 900, hold for 30 minutes; 350 to 700, no hold; end. Just a suggestion.


Saturday, June 27, 2009
1 Post

to lindafern: Two guesses; 1, Fusing temp/time maybe a little on the low side. 2. (more likely) you had the dichroic side up and not capped with clear. Much of the dichroic will yield a rough, sometimes even "splintery texture if not covered with glass  


Friday, June 19, 2009
1 Post

I had a batch of cabashons come out of the kiln with a gritty finish.  Any idea what I did wrong?  I did remove them before completely cooling down, would this cause it to not be smooth? thanks for your opinions,  Linda Fern


Thursday, June 4, 2009
1 Post

About Glass Eye 2000 Whenever I get the time I love this program and would reccommend it to any one that is big into glass... the pannels and windows I have designed with it have become cherished family momentos and are being moved from place to place with no trouble. I have truly enjoyed it and hope to continue upgrading the programing soon. Fondly in Glass Beth Snider  


Tuesday, May 26, 2009
94 Posts

What am I missing?  Where's the picture?