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How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.
Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.
Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.
Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.
Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.
Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.
Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.
How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).
Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.
Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.
Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.
It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.
What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.
How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.
There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.
I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.
To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.
I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!
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@mparent123, I wouldn't recommend this, not so much because the mold can t take the heat but because whatever glass barrier you are using will breakdown at high temperatures causing your glass to stick to the mold. If it does survive once you start combing you will drag the kiln wash through the glass which will create streaks.
Does anyone know how hot you can fire a casting mold? I'm thinking about trying combing in a mold, but I'm concerned about how hot I have to go for the combing... I don't want to damage the mold.
I just received my order for 2 piece drop mold. ring #806143 and foot #80719. Has anyone used these? Need to know firing schedules for these molds and any helpful suggestions.
I recently fired some glass in my Jen Ken kiln and for the first time I am getting 1/2" bubbles in various areas of the pieces. I used 2 layers of glass, some with clear on top and some with clear on the bottom. I've adjusted the firing schedule to 300 to 1000F - hold .30 - 300 to 1450F - hold .10 - full to 960F - hold 1.30. Still getting bubbles. Never had this before - any suggestions to avoid these? Also, is there a way to save these pieces? I have pierced the bubbles - can I cover the glass with a layer of clear frit (medium) and refire?
Has anyone here had any experience with the large lamp shade drape mold? I'm getting ready to use it to create a fused glass lamp shade. (item #806164) I've downloaded the PDF User Manual and noticed that it says to use "suitable glass separator". I was planning to use Primo Primer. Will I also need to use Thinfire paper? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated! Jackie
@DelphiHelper Thanks so much! :)
@Akrunner For 90 COE fusing schedules and questions, we usually refer artists to the Bullseye website. They have a lot of good information on methods and tips for working with 90 COE glass. Good luck! http://www.bullseyeglass.com/all-methods.html
I'm very new when it comes to fusing glass (only a few months of experience) and everything I have experimented with has been with system96. This site has been very helpful in all of my system96 needs and inspiration but since I've joined Delphi I've noticed a lot of people are also using 90 COE glass for fusing. I've done some browsing but I haven't come across anything in regard to there being a different firing schedule from system96 glass. I've been hesitant to experiment but is it safe to assume that the firing schedules that have worked for my system 96 projects will work also for 90 COE glass types? Is there some temperature differences I should be taking note of? Any help for this new fuser is greatly appreciated. :)
The anealing door will not have an effect on the firing of the kiln. It is a convienence for bead makers. Batch anealing beads in a kiln is just fine. And lastly, the ditigal control kilns are very reliable. They can also be programed with your firing schedules so, if you have schedules that you like you can use them!
I am finally going to upgrade from my ancient kiln to a modern computer controlled kiln. But when I looked at different option some have doors for bead annealing. I do mor fusing the torch work, but I have done it. My question is, does the bead annealing doors have effect on firing process, and I have always annealed my beads in my fusion kiln, I have never had a issue....yet. Am I ok or just lucky? And lastly, my old kiln was manual, so I have very specific firing charts. I know I am probably going to need new charts for new kiln, are the computer pre programs reliable?
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