Read Comments

I want to add a wood frame to my stained glass panel, but I don't want part of my bevel edges hidden in the frames slot. I was thinking about soldering some tabs to the edges of my panel solely for the purpose of fitting into the frame. Anyone ever attempted something like that? Any suggestions? Is this a reasonable idea?

How can Glassline paints be used successfully in the Fuseworks microwave kiln? Each time I have tried, the colors came out a grayish instead of the intended colors.

@krbeunkate cutting your clear cap slightly larger than your base is a good idea when working with textures or dichroic glass. A bit of fusers glue to help hold your pieces together should do the trick - item B8234 Glas Tac Firing Glue is a popular solution.

I am new to glass fusing and hae been trying out different pieces of glass to make pendants. Using the ripple glass I am having an issue. What's happening is the ripple glass seems to be slipping out fromthe clear glass on top -- most of it covers well but the sides or top seem to pop out of the clear glass even though they are the same size or even sometimes a bit larger. Any tips on this? Does the thickness of the clear glass matter? Kate

@JanneRochlin I'm glass you were able to locate the Colour De Verre fill weights on our web page. That said, the Poppy molds that you purchased were made by Creative Paradise and that is why the fill weight for the large poppy isn't working for you. You can find the project guide for the Poppy molds that you purchased by clicking on the link in the product description for either one of these molds. I have e-mailed you a copy as well. Thank you being a part of DelphiGlass.com!

I bought both the large and the small poppy molds. The fill weights are 19 ounces for the large and 10 ounces for the small. The small one came out just fine. But I have made two large ones with 19 ounces each and each came out with holes in them. The first with a large hole which I filled with frit, covered with a dragonfly casting and soft fused. It looks alright but I have lost some of the sharp detail. The second had a smaller hole which I covered with some small leaf casting and I am tack fusing. It will be ready tonight. Since I am following weights and the fusing schedules that came with the molds, why is this happening? What can I do to correct it?

@VKoren be sure you're removing all of your flux after your soldering. Kwik Clean Flux remover does a great job of neutralizing your flux which helps prevent dull spots, Simichrome polish will also do a great job of shining up your lines. A lot of factors can come into play with this question; if you continue having trouble please call our customer service department and we'll be happy to work through the issue with you.

I had to drill a small hole in the poinsettia mold too. Now it works great. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner

@aglassact303 NEVER MIND all, drilled the holes, 5, 1.5" from each corner and one in the middle. SUCCESS. Please pass the word.

@comments2 I need help. I have purchased three of the Creative Paradise molds and used the schedules provided. The Art Nouveau rectangle is producing perfect pieces. But the larger round floral and the Tree of Life are creating large bubbles. Complete failures. The large bubbles are bursting or just deflated. Do you think drilling holes in the mold will help. The instructions do not indicate this is necessary. I have tried their fusing schedule as well as going slower. What about not going as high in final temp, 1470. Maybe 1400 or 1350? Please help