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Hello, I have done stained glass for maybe 10 years, just small things mostly for the enjoyment of making things for myself or as gifts. I recently purchased a used a Jen-Ken Kiln Bead Annealer with a 4 " flip door and with a AF3P ore-programmed "One Smart Controller". After several attempts I have ALMOST got the fused barrettes right, EXCEPT for they all have many "points" of sharp glass around the edges after fusing. I have tried gently grinding them off then doing a fire polish. It did work, but would like to know a way to NOT have the "points" on them to begin with. I asked on a Yahoo fusing group I belong to, and the below #'s were suggested to me. 500 to 1100; hold 30 500 to 1460; hold 20 <<<<< this segment would adjust up or down in time/temp depending upon results AFAP to 950; hold 30 I tired it, the glass looked like it barely got fused at all. SO could someone there suggest something different. I don't want to give up ;-)

I have purchased several molds and am finally getting around to prepping them for use. One of the direction sheets included suggested pre-firing @ 90F/hr up to 1470F, with no holding time and to let it cool on it's own. Other molds do not have any directions at all, but I was told by a sales person to just pray on the mold release and heat in oven to 400F after it had dried for 20 minutes. Do I need to pre-fire my molds? They are all pretty small. None of them are more than 30cm in size. I'm excited about all the possibilities with the molds but, frankly, am a bit intimidated and don't want to ruin them (or the glass) right off the bat. Janelle

there are some texture molds that are 9x9.....if i have a project 12 inches in length that needed texturing how could i accomplish this......do i need to buy (2) 9x9 to get the 12 inches......do i need to put a piece of thin fiber paper at the connection????

@Catherine E. we recommend framing your piece in zinc - 3/8" - 1/2" will work best for maximum support. Wood stop can be used to cover the zinc around the panel and secure the window.

@toryhillglass assuming you've already framed your piece with rigid came, our oak framing stock is a great choice for adding strength and decorative framing.

I am working on a leaded panel that is approximately 3' x 3'. It has two support pieces, but I am looking for something about 1" that I can frame the panel in. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!

I have only framed panels in zinc came for hanging but now I need to know about trimming a panel for installation. I need to trim a copper foil panel (8" wide by 18" tall) that will be installed on the interior of a double paned glass window in a wooden door. I am using a Delphi catalogue to look at came. To trim should I use lead came, 1/8" Flat U? Thanks for your expert advice.

@Corissa G. Glassline pens have not been tested in the microwave kiln and so we do not have a recommended firing schedule. Since every microwave is a bit different it's hard to say if it's getting too hot, or not hot enough to cure the paints properly. If you keep a firing log tracking your schedules you can try lowering the temperature and / or shortening the hold time and checking the progress often to see when the paint becomes shiny.

@mary p. Unfortunately, our testing with molds in the microwave kiln resulted in many broken molds. We do not recommend molds in the microwave kiln. For results similar to casting you might try Polar Fuse by Fuseworks - it's designed specifically for the microwave kiln.

@John A. the wood frame should only cover the 1/4" or so of your panel that is already encased in rigid came - it should not extend onto the visible glass. Even with a wood frame, rigid came is recommended for added strength and longevity.