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@BigSkyDichroic You could always attempt to fire polish. But please be careful, given the temperatures for fire polishing and how long you may be holding you can seriously risk miss-shaping a slumped bowl or plate for example. There is also a product you could try, Clear Coat Overglaze (item# 7404ALT), but bear in mind that you would need to fire it to 1350F or higher which still risks miss-shaping a slumped piece.

@marlea Unknown, even if there was a way to indicate the COE of a certain manufacturer bottle chances are every other one you would look to use would be different. This is why we only recommend slumping bottles or utilizing a bottle cutter to create other forms of bottle art.

@jennalee Frequently, what you have described here is an indicator that you are in fact firing too hot. Also, you mention a post, are you working with a casting mold with a post? If so, you must be meticulous about detailing that primo primer into every nook and cranny of the mold and around the post. If you plan on doing more work with molds like this I may suggest you go with a boron nitride spray like MR-97 (item#93701).

@Nyssa It would be helpful to see the box you are working with so we could properly advise you. You can send pictures with your questions to [email protected].

@Karen D. Inland makes a good cutting oil (item# 7240). Although if you have a cutter that has a carbide blade you do not have to use cutting oil. Some people just prefer to use it. Our video explains the use of cutting oil- http://www.delphiglass.com/video_view?vid=LH3rgoBaYlA

You should always allow some space between the pieces in your pattern regardless of the method used to assemble, lead or copper foil. As indicated above pattern shears are a good way to accomplish this as they remove the necessary space for the type of method.

@crozetlulu Once you are finished soldering the piece you should always use a flux remover (item# 5513). Flux residue left on the piece can cause cloudiness or corrosion. Then after you apply the patina, use a sealant such as Simichrome Polish (item# 5524) or Liva Polishing Compound (item# 9432). Since the piece stays outside you will need to occasionally apply the polish to help protect from corrosion.

@mary p. It sounds like the piece was stressed from the first firing and that is why it exploded. Did you use shelf paper in the kiln? Without it the glass would stick to the kiln. Shelf paper is a must. To repair the kiln you can use Kiln Repair Cement item #42902.

do you have a setup recommendation for an arched panel? I know you can use wood or the aluminum layout blocks for square or rectangular panels, but this has me a bit stumped as I've not done this type of panel.

I have quite a bit of stained glass that is not rated coe. Am I able to fuse it with pieces from the same sheet? For example, I have the #8055 Sky's the Limit Glass Pack. Can I cut two 2" square pieces from the same sheet, stack them, and fuse them together? I would like to also apply one of the black enamel decals. Thanks for your help.