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Why did you choose a "96" C.O.E.? @ElletteShafer It sounds like you are checking the obvious issues by confirming the COE is the same and using the settings provided. Normally we try to provide answers but since this is complicated and needs more information and questioning we would ask that you contact us over the phone. We do have a dedicated project help line where we are standing by to assist at anytime with questions like this- 1-800-821-9450.
Hi I have the delphi EZ pro deluxe 15-6 kiln and I have used the settings that came in the book for a full fuse. I have never had anything come out at all and have broken several molds due to the glass sticking as I used the kiln wash that came with the kit. My glass keeps cracking in half now and both layers of glass were from the same piece of glass so I know the COE was the same. Any ideas what is going wrong?
@Stephen23240 Yes, we are familiar with the struggles that the X200 has presented; and have communicated feedback to the manufacturer. We ve also noticed that it tends to be a magnet for bubbles as well. The best approach we can suggest you take is to make sure you aren t just going too hot but also not too hot, too quickly. Both too high of heat as well as ramping too quickly to that high temperature can cause devit. Also, just a reminder, once there is devit on the glass there isn t a guaranteed way of reversing it, so just be sure you re using a new piece each time you attempt to fire.
I'm using Spectrum 96 white glass and having no luck with getting rid of the devit! I've reduced the upper temp to the point where I'm just getting little more than a tack fuse and cleaned the surface very thoroughly. The amount of devit was less than previous attempts but still apparent. I'd quite like to be able to have a better fuse but this means a higher temp and more devit! Anyone else have this problem the the white glass?
@jennalee Frequently, what you have described here is an indicator that you are in fact firing too hot. Also, you mention a post . . . are you working with a casting mold with a post? If so, you must be meticulous about detailing that primo primer into every nook and cranny of the mold and around the post. If you plan on doing more work with molds like this I may suggest you go with a boron nitride spray.
Help! I've just started using my Studio 8 Kiln and I am having problems with the ceramic molds that came with my kit. I've broken 3 of them already!! I used the Primo Primer and put on 5 generous coats with ample drying time between. I think I am heating and cooling the glass slowly enough and I've tried to remove the glass from the molds at different temperatures. When I managed to pry one out it brought a lot of the bottom of the mold and the post with it.... Any ideas? Am I heating the glass too much or for too long that it is burning onto the mold? Thanks for any help!!
I stopped using kiln wash on the majority of my plate molds and use fiber paper instead,as delphiehellper said it makes things slide off easier and the backs are smother. jo
System 96 recommends this: "Bubbles are best avoided in the design stage. Large areas of uninterrupted layering invite them. For example, a 10x10-inch sheet atop another 10x10-inch sheet leaves no easy avenue of escape for the air between glass layers. Alternately, a 10x10-inch sheet topped with four 5x5-inch pieces provides seams to ven trapped air. Design to avoid bubbles for the best prevention." A few other tips are 1. To place coarse frit along the edges of the glass to hold the edges up longer allowing air to escape as the center settles. 2. Use a bubble squeeze. You can download this information from the System 96 website.
I use system 96 glass in my skutt kiln. I have been having so much trouble with bubbles. I have followed other blogs about bubbles on how to fix the problem. I have flipped the shelf over. I have increased the soak time to 30 min and 40 min. I have used shelf paper thick and thin. HELP! My bubbles are about a 1/4 inch. Not horrific but, definitely not attractive in my projects.
Help, I used 96 opal white powder and a stencil to add a design to my piece. I fused to a tack fuse, 1380, the design is still slightly raised, but the image is clear, not white. I did not have this problem when I used black powder. Could it be the powder? Thanks.