Lead Tips

@ A trick I learned from our expert lead instructor is that for sharply angled points it can sometimes be difficult to cut as a single cut. To achieve the sharp corners, cut the came slightly longer than needed. Using lead nippers, make cuts to separate the "heart" of the came from both "faces" of the came. Cut the faces of the came to the length and angle needed to fit your pattern, then trim the heart of the came to match the shortest edge of your angle cut. It should now assemble neatly to join your pieces.

@loveofpoms If you wish to make the repairs yourself, you can use your regular stained glass tools. You can find helpful instructions for making the repair in a book such as "Making Stained Glass Lamps" or "Stained Glass Basics".

I have a vintage Tiffany dragonfly lamp , that needs repair where the lead has come loose. Can you please tell me what I will need to repair this? Thank you!

@Rzwerdling The channel of the wood framing stock that we offer is 3/8" deep x 5/16" wide, and will completely conceal your 1/4" Adjustable U (or smaller) zinc, brass or copper came border.

I'm interested in adding a wood frame from Delphi to frame my stained glass panel 9" x 36". I wanted the frame to be 1" wide oak from Delphi What type/ size of came channel (?) do I need to fit in the wood frame routing so it is completely concealed when constructed?

@bsxtr2311150357 5/64" RU Hobby Came is designed as a border for small projects and sun catchers. To stretch it you can secure one end in a bench vise then, making sure it's not twisted, use pliers to pull and stretch it. It doesn't overlap far onto the edges of the glass, so it's very important that it is well stretched before use (any amount of stretching or sagging after assembly will allow glass to come out easily). It should be cut for a tight fit, then soldered at the cut ends and each point an internal solder line or lead line intersects with it. Because it is narrow, it solders very quickly - be careful not to overheat and melt the came. If you are looking for a more substantial border, 1/8" Flat U Lead would be slightly wider (1/16" is not available - it would actually be smaller than 5/64").

I just got some of the 5/64" u channel hobby came like the others and also cannot find good information on how to use it. It it flat with very tiny edges that will not hold the glass. Do you stretch it by hand and then use it like copper foil, bending up the edges and then burnishing it? Then, just carefully solder the joints so it doesn't melt? It is for a small sun catcher. Also, it 1/16" a better choice than 5/64"? I couldn't find 1/16 on Delphi's website so I thought I would try the 5/64, but as I said, there is really no lip on the 5/64 so I am not sure how it is supposed to hold the glass well.

@livinit04 cement and whiting powder should always be used in lead applications for strenth and stability.

I'm using 1/4" round U-shaped lead came to frame a panel that is 20"x12" with the top arched. Do I need to cement/whiting?

@fred223delphi Also stretching lead removes the kinks, straightens the lead, making it more rigid which helps reduce the likelihood that it will sag over time.

@fred223delphi The easiest way to finish off lead came where the corners meet is to use very little solder (I prefer to use a nice clean tip fresh off the salamoniac block so that it s easy to pick up just a very small amount of solder.

What's the easiest way to finish off lead came were corners meet? My corners always come out so messy. Also, why does lead came need to be stretched?

@DianeS Came alway needs to be stretched. Otherwise it will sag away from the edge of the glass. If you are wraping suncatchers or something similar there is no need to cement it.

I plan on using spooled 5/64" hobby lead around some small pieces. Does this lead need to be stretched and does it need to have the glazing compound or something? Or is it just wrapped and soldered at the seams? Thanks so much for your help!

I plan on using spooled 5/64" hobby lead around some small pieces. Does this lead need to be stretched and does it need to have the compound or something? Or is it just wrapped and soldered at the seams? Thanks so much for your help!

@rafiashujaat Sure!

@jhaan - thank you sooo much! Can you also help me with the Hobby came :)?

@rafiashujaat The spooled lead came and the 6 foot sections of lead came are the same. You will use it the same way cutting off what you need therefore you may have less waste.

Hi, I have searched everywhere but cannot find instructions on how to use the spooled lead and what effect does it give? Is it similar to the lead came we use or is it like copper foiling? Thank you

When removing the lead came it is important to keep the amount of heat on the chanel to a minimum. Let the excess solder stick to your soldering iron and shake it off onto your work surface. If you just move the solder over onto the glass you will run the risk of cracking it.

I finished a 16"X28" window. I forgot to stretch the came and of course it is sagging. What precautions must I take in removing the unstretched came so I can fix it?

  40 Watts is hot enough to solder.  The question is what type of soldering are you wanting to do. The higher the wattage the longer the iron will maintain its heat.  So, if you  want to solder a long bead for say, a stained glass piece, you would need this higher wattage.  However, if you only need to solder a small area, such as a leaded joint or jewelry pieces, the lower wattage could be used.  

What is the minimum wattage you need for soildering ?   I have a 40 Watt, is that good enough ?  

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