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@Lynne I'm not entirely clear about a couple of your questions but I will do what I can. I am not understanding the jagged edges - is the mold jagged or the kiln wash? Kiln was on the back of your mold will not hurt anything - it will burn off during firing. I think the dial and the digital box you are referencing are a Pyrometer which is how you set the temperature if you don't have a programmable kiln. You'll want to heat slowly to your target temperature. I'm not sure if flash venting is necessary or not. You can get some additional information at www.DelphiGlass.com/glassfusing. Our customer care center also offers technical support and they would be more than happy to assist you.

We are using the Christmas tree and heart slumping molds. Following the instructions for times etc. Have put molds in kiln to set kiln wash. First problem is edges are jagged and some of the kiln wash always sticks to the back of the mold. We are using system 96 glass. Also some say when it is time to flash cool, then just turn kiln off. Other instructions have you flash cool then have the kiln reduce the temperatures as indicated on the instructions for slumping. We have a refurbished Paragon kiln. Sorry one more question, there is a dial on the box that is attached to the kiln. Goes from low to high and there is a digital box then attached to that. Not sure what and how to use that dial?? Thanks, Lynne S.

Hi, Somewhere here are there suggestions on what to use to actually "hang" the piece after you've finished the wood frame? I've seen some with eye hooks and chain...Not sure what hardware to buy to ensure it's strong. And...thank you all for the advice above. I was told NOT to use came inside the wood frame. I will do it now as I'd planned :)

I have an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner I bought for cleaning my airbrush and found that it is perfect for cleaning nuggets prior to foiling. I just dump all my nuggets in the basket, add enough glass cleaner and water (about 1 part cleaner to 2 parts water) to cover them, let the thing run for a few minutes, then take them out and dry thoroughly. And just like that you have nice, clean nuggets that foil will actually adhere to.

@Lori J. I can't see any problem with that schedule off the top of my head but, because every kiln is unique, adjustments must sometimes be made. It may be that the glass is cooling too quickly - you could reduce the ramp temperature for slow down or increase the annealing time - it's a pretty thick casting and it can never hurt. The other thing that can cause cracking is incompatible glass. You can use a Stress Tester (item 103399) to determine if stress is the cause.

I have the butter dish mold. Yesterday I did the Base and it cracked. I put in 18 oz. of coe96 glass then fired it using the schedule that was on the web site. I've done this a few times and ended up cracking the one mold. I've looked at it at full fuse and looks good, and I've looked at it once it cooled down and has shut down and good then but crack once its completely cool. Fired again and didn't look until completely cooled down still cracked. I don't know what else to do here. Have a few people wanting one.

HI Jennifer, I am going to increase the time of the middle 40 minutes & leave everything else the same. IF this doesn't work I will give Delphi a call, wish me luck !

@cucabee your firing schedule appears to be a good one and I can't see any reason for it not to work for you. Perhaps your temperature gauge is wrong - all kilns vary a bit and this isn't entirely unusual. A solution for that can be simply experimenting with your target temperature (go a bit hotter) and hold times (hold a bit longer.) Another possible issue is that you are loosing heat out the bead door. A solution for that is to simply purchase a fiber blanket, cut it to fit the door, and use it to seal any gaps. If you are using dichroic or iridized glass the edges sometimes don't melt as smoothly as regular glass due to the coating - that could also be a part of the problem. If you continue to have issues please feel free to give our customer service department a call. We are here to help you be successful and enjoy your glass art!

@blaqsmoke you could certainly buy two and put them together to get the length but you will likely have a seam. If you try it I would definitely recommend some fiber paper at the seam.

@Janelle K. Great Question! If you are using MR-97 you simply need to spray on 4 thin coats the first time you use a mold then another thin coat each time there after. Allowing the mold to simply sit for a few minutes until it's dry is sufficient, there is no need to heat it in an oven or a kiln. If you are spraying a texture mold or a holey mold be sure to turn your mold a quarter turn between sprays (on the original and subsequent coats) in order to get a bit of spray on all sizes of the post / texture. If you are using a brush on primer - like Primo Primer or other kiln wash - after applying a few coats to your mold you can 1) patiently let your mold dry over night until all of the release is dry OR pop it in an oven to speed up the process so that you can get going - either way is totally fine, just make sure your primer is totally dry or it can cause sticking.