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Hi This is not a comment it is a question or rather a plea for help.I make fused glass pictures.Recently I have two 12" squares which have cracked across one corner one after more than a year of moving from gallery to gallery. Before fusing I soak at 555c for 1 hour then soak again at 671c for 30 mins then fuse at 780 around 10 mins then flash cool.Finally I soak at 516c for 3 hours or four and then turn off the kiln and cool.My kiln is a top loader pearl 18 clamshell firebrick. larger pieces are drilled at the edges and screwed to board. Do I need to slow down my cooling process? These works are usually no more than 8 mill thick in any place though there are different depths in them and sometimes bullseye and wasser together. Any ideas and help would be most appreciated Yours Deborah A very confused by all the annealing info I have read recently uk glass maker

Since one side of the glass is textured it may be interfering with the ability of the adhesive to hold while getting wet. You can cut the shape from clear float glass to use as a template. This way you will have two flat surfaces together. You can't do them all at the same time but you should end up with a perfect match. Another way to duplicate the pattern would be to cut the shape from heavy paper as a template, draw around it with waterproof marker and cover the marker with mark stay or vaseline. This will keep the line from disappearing when grinding.

This isn't a comment. It is a question. I need to grind 3 pieces of glass to the same specifications. I know that they can be stacked together. However, I have yet to find any adhesive that will hold them. Double stick tape, rubber cement, silicone gleus/adhesives, even super glue has not worked for me. I am trying to make 3 separate irises. The petals for the glass is slightly rough on one side and smooth on the other. The flowers are going to be set in one window panel. I am grinding these on an 'Inland' grinder with a 1 inch bit. Any, ANY help you can give me would be so appreciated. Thank you - - - Joseph

I just purchased the double candle mold. Yesterday I fused a sheet streaky glass with a piece of clear. When this cooled, I tried to slump it onto the candle mold; the glass broke! I thought that maybe the glass was too heavy because I fused a piece of clear on top before slumping. I tried to slump using just one 3mm piece of glass over the candle mold, it broke!! What am I doing wrong???

You can use the same kiln but not the same kiln shelf. Dedicate one kiln shelf to only PMC.

You can fire PMC in the same kiln? Won't interfere with fusing glass afterwards? Thought I read somewhere not to use the same kiln. I would be happy if I can use the same one. TIA Pam

I recently finished a large window (approximately 6' tall by 30" wide) and I used copper strips along each side, then across the panel where I could fit it into the pattern. It seems to be "ok" so far. I have it mounted in an oak frame and that is screwed in place inside of the existing window frame against four lath strips. The soldering is a little tricky since the copper strips are higher than the glass surface, but it puts more solder along those lines in the panel. Since the stained glass window is inside the home and not exposed to any outside weather, I think it will be fine. I also don't live in an earthquake area; if I did I would most likely have used some reinforcing rods as well.

@rafiashujaat Sure!

@jhaan - thank you sooo much! Can you also help me with the Hobby came :)?

@rafiashujaat The spooled lead came and the 6 foot sections of lead came are the same. You will use it the same way cutting off what you need therefore you may have less waste.