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Hi, I have searched everywhere but cannot find instructions on how to use the spooled lead and what effect does it give? Is it similar to the lead came we use or is it like copper foiling? Thank you

I've had great success doing mosaics on metal when i glue with siliconized acrylic caulk instead of white glue. In fact, i almost never use white glue or any other PVA glue for any mosaics. I like everything to be as water proof as possible and white glue gets tacky when damp. It also gets cloudy when its behind clear glasses.

The EZ-Pro kiln is pre programed with 8 firing schedules for glass. As well as programs for annealing and metal clay. These are general firing schedules which form the basics of fusing. As you learn more about the glass pieces you are firing you can adjust these schedules by programing your own schedules into the empty slots to further get the results you are looking for.

I just got the EZ-Pro table top kiln & I was currious do I do a slumping program for it, or do I program it in to where it does just the slumping firing & then shuts off?

Try chipping the glass off with a chisel or paint scraper being careful not to chip the shelf. Wear safety glasses. Then use a 120 grit sandpaper followed with 600 grit to smooth the surface out. Avoid sanding too far. You don't want to create a divot which will trap air bubbles when firing. Re-apply kiln wash.

I fired a project and the kiln wash did not work, I broke up the glass (guess I'll have some pretty frit....) but now how to I get the rest of the glass pieces off the shelf and get it cleaned up so that it can be used again? Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance :)

When you are fusing glass you have to know the COE....coefficiency of expansion. The rate at which the glass melts and cools. In fusing, we work with either 90COE or 96 COE. If making lampworked beads, we work in 90COE or 104COE. They must be the same or will crack when heating up or cooling down. In stained glass it does not matter since heat is not involved. This is why fusible glass costs more, because it has been tested and rated to assure the consumer it is compatible with the glass the fuser may put it with.

This is so great! Thanks!

I just started with creating fused glass pieces. What's the difference (if any) between the glass used for fusing and the glass used for stained glass projects? Thanks!

There are a couple of things that could cause the problem you are describing. One, your kiln or kiln shelf may not be level which could cause the glass to shift if there is any movement around the kiln or within the glass. Second, you might try ramping at a slower rate. When working with several layers of glass, in your case 3-4, it is important that the heat is distributed evenly. If the outer layers become hot and the interior is still cold the difference in temperature could cause some instability. By ramping slower it will give each layer a chance to heat at the same rate. Try holding the temp at 1150F for 10-15 minutes as well to allow the heat to become saturated throughout. You could use the firing glue (not diluted white glue) which will burn off at the same time as the kiln paper. Usually around 900F. This may give you the additional hold you need. You can vent the kiln if you feel that the surface of your glass becomes cloudy from the organic material burning off.