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Hi, I am new to glass fusing and I really hope someone can answer this question. I have been using Spectrum 96 tested glass with CBS96 Dichroic. After I get my pieces (all smaller than 2" square) set up on Bullseye Thinfire Paper on the kiln shelf and start the kiln I check thru the window and can see nothing has moved. but every time the kiln reaches about 200F, I notice the pieces have all come apart. Why is this happening. I have seen where some people use diluted glue to glue pieces together, but I am under the impression that the glue will only hold till about 300F, so eventually they will slip around again. Ramping @ about 350F/hr when occuring. Using 7x7" ceramic shelf on 1/2" kiln posts. Venting top about 1/2". Also, most pieces are 3 or 4 layers of 3mm glass sheets, all smooth and stacked solidly. Thank you for any help!!!

When removing the lead came it is important to keep the amount of heat on the chanel to a minimum. Let the excess solder stick to your soldering iron and shake it off onto your work surface. If you just move the solder over onto the glass you will run the risk of cracking it.

I finished a 16"X28" window. I forgot to stretch the came and of course it is sagging. What precautions must I take in removing the unstretched came so I can fix it?

Thank you so much for your response. I will apply the clear lacguer or enamel.........

@[email protected] One of our Delphi Glass instructors uses clear lacquer or enamel to protect his stained glass pieces for outdoor display. We are here in Michigan and get some extreme weather at times! He uses it in spray form and applies a thin coat to the entire piece.

I live in upstate NY and want to put some of my stained glass foiled projects outside. Are there any suggestions on how to protect my panel from the elements? I want to put them in an arbor, so they will not be in a protected area. A couple of suggestions that were made to me was: to lacquar the solder seams with clear finger nail polish; to sandwich the panel between 2 pieces of glass (?). Please advise. Thank you.

I am a beginner at fusing--I just got a tabletop kiln and can't hardly wait to get going! The tips and instructions are so much help in keeping up my confidence that "Maybe I CAN do this", I really appreciate it!!! I have learned a great deal just by looking at all the supplies you sell for fusing and reading about how they are used--things I never thought were possible for a small operation, for example, the dam mold I just found, opened my eyes to the idea that I can fuse glass blocks and cut them with my ringsaw. Gosh, what an amateur I sound like!! Hopefully, not for too long. Thank you again.

@jhaan Thank you for the reply I'll keep that in mind & add a table kiln later for bracelets.

The reason the tabletop kiln works for bracelet making is the small firebox. This allows for intense heat in a small space which will heat the blank and allow you to manipulate it quickly. The ability to flash vent is what keeps the bracelet from falling open after it has been bent. Even if you were to turn off the top element in the 15-6, with the temperature needed to heat the blank there would be too much surface space radiating this intense heat (1350 degrees) for you to reach in an form the bracelet. Because of the amount of heat generated, as well as the size, flash venting becomes an issue as well.

I'm going to be getting the ez pro 15-6 kiln & I was wondering if since I can turn off the top heating elements (going off of an above comment) will it be easier for me to do bracelets?