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Fusing Tips

How do you apply kiln wash to a shelf?
Mix up kiln wash according to the manufacturers instructions. Most recipes consist of one part kiln wash to four or five parts water by volume.

Brush the kiln wash onto the kiln shelf using a haik brush; this allows the kiln wash to go on more smoothly. At least four coats of kiln wash should be applied to the shelf, with each coat brushed on in a different direction (side to side, top to bottom, and diagonally in two directions). Also stir up the kiln wash between coats because the kiln wash can settle quickly in the bottom of your container. Once you have applied all of your coats, allow the shelf to air dry for a day. Otherwise, you can speed up the drying process by placing the kiln shelf in your kiln, heating up the kiln to 500 F, and allow the shelf to cool down. Make sure that you use a kiln post to slightly open up the lid of the kiln and allow the moisture to escape as it evaporates from the shelf.

Once the kiln shelf is dry, examine the kiln wash on the surface. If it looks like it needs to be smoothed a little, a piece of panty hose works great to lightly brush over the surface and remove any imperfections.


Do I have to have a Hot Box kiln to make bent glass bracelets?
Yes. The Hot Box kiln is a small table top kiln that heats up and cools down quickly which is ideal for bending bracelets and keeping the shape. If you use a larger kiln, it won't heat up quickly enough to simply soften the glass bracelet without changing the shape.

Also, because the Hot Box kiln has a smaller heating chamber, it's only necessary to wear gloves to protect your hands and forearms from the heat. In a larger kiln, it would be necessary to wear a protective face mask as well as a Kevlar suit to reach into the kiln to prevent being burned.


Can I make beads in a kiln?
Yes. Beads made in a kiln are flat compared to the round beads made in a torch. To make the hole in a bead, you can cut up narrow strips of 1/8" fiber paper or coat a stainless steel mandrel with bead release and place between the layers of glass. To ensure that the glass will wrap and mold both side of the hole, make sure that the glass extends at least 1/4" past the mandrel. Sometimes the stainless steel mandrels roll around a little, so you can use the thicker fiber paper until the ends of the mandrel to hold it in place.

Once you have fused the glass beads, simply pull the stainless steel mandrel out of the hole. With fiber paper, a pipe cleaner to push out the paper.


How do I drill holes in glass?
Drilling holes is very easy to do using a dremel and a diamond coated bit. Inland has a very affordable drill bit assortment (#50115).

Start with a container large enough to hold your glass piece. Place a scrap piece of glass in the bottom of the container, stack the piece of glass that will be drilled on top and then fill the container with enough water to cover the surface of the glass by about an 1/8". Hold your glass piece firmly in one hand, and gently start to drill the glass hole allowing the bit to do the work. Don't push down on the Dremel because it's possible to break the glass. Occasionally pull the bit out of the hole to allow water in and check on your progress.


Can I fire silver jewelry clay in my glass kiln?
Yes. The extra thing you'll want to use is a separate kiln shelf just for jewelry clay. When firing silver in a kiln, the silver leaves a permanent stain on the shelf. If you then fuse glass on the same shelf, the stain might contaminate and leave a mark on your fused glass.


Do I have to use kiln wash on my fiberboard mold?
If you're using the fiberboard that Delphi sells, it isn't necessary. Just like fiber paper, glass can be placed directly onto the surface of the mold. It will leave a very subtly texture on the bottom side of the glass. For a very smooth surface, lightly sand the surface and edges of the mold before firing. Remember that anytime you are working with fiberboard you should wear a respirator. After your project is finished, it may pick up some fiber particles that can be cleaned off with water.

It's possible to make a longer lasting mold by treating the fiberboard with mold hardener. Once this is done, you will need to use kiln wash on the surface of the mold so that glass won't stick to it.


What are the steps to using mold hardener with fiberboard?
To treat fiberboard with mold hardener, first cut out your mold. The mold should be fired at 1200 F in a vented kiln to burn out any binders in the fiber board. Place the mold in a container and saturate it with the mold hardener. Allow the mold to dry for several days and then re-fire to 1200 F to cure the hardener and burn out any remaining moisture. Once cooled, you can lightly sand out any imperfections and coat with kiln wash before covering with glass.


How do I put kiln wash on a stainless steel mold?
Regular kiln wash doesn't stick to a stainless steel mold unless the mold has been preheated first. Heat up the mold in your kiln to about 400 F. Wearing heat protective gloves, remove the mold from the kiln and place it on a heat-resistant surface. Kiln wash can either be brushed or sprayed onto the surface. The mold will cool quickly, and you'll notice that the kiln wash will start to roll off the surface. If the entire surface isn't coated, place the mold back in the kiln and reheat it. Again, remove it from the kiln, and apply more kiln wash. You will want to repeat these steps until the mold is completely coated. Note: Do not spray kiln wash on the mold while it's in the kiln. The kiln wash may coat the kiln elements and burn them out.

There is also a new product available exclusively for stainless steel molds called Mold Armor. A thin coat is either brushed or sprayed onto the mold at room temperature. Then place the mold in a vented kiln and fire to between 1100 F and 1292 F to cure it. Once the mold has cooled, smooth the surface with a very fine steel wool. The manufacturer claims that one application can be used up to 60 times.


I'm ready to buy a kiln. What other supplies do I need to get started?
Selecting a kiln is a big decision. If you are unsure which one is for you, please don't hesitate to call us, and we can help you make an educated decision. Once you have selected a kiln that will fit your needs, here is a recommended list supplies that are necessities when getting started.

  • Kiln Shelf
  • Kiln Posts - three or four to place underneath the kiln shelf, and one or two for venting or other purposes
  • Kiln wash
  • Haik brush for applying kiln wash
  • Heat-resistant protective gloves
  • Safety Glasses
  • Lid Lifter - to safely open the lid on larger floor kilns
  • Assortment of compatible glass

To take the confusion out of what to order for your kiln, Delphi has already put together kiln accessory kits that contain everything you need to outfit your kiln, except for glass.


I'm having trouble programming my kiln controller. Can you help?!
Absolutely! Call us on our toll-free helpline, and one of our helpful associates can walk you through programming right on the phone!

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Eclecticity

Monday, May 16, 2011
28 Posts

I fused a 96 COE dichroic 3 x 3 square onto System 96 black 5 x 5 using the System 96 firing schedule (which I swear by) - but this time, I got big and small bubbles. Haven't had this problem since I started using this schedule and the glass is too expensive to have this keep happening - twice now. I noticed that Roy Kapp has a photo of one he did with a double plate mold (Item# 7448) and wonder if he would share his fusing schedule with me. I have ordered this plate mold and would like to try again. Thanks! Sally

jhaan

Monday, May 16, 2011
57 Posts

Try soaking the mold in warm water for a few hours. Then use a brush with nylon bristles to clean the wash off. We recommend using Primo Primer on casting molds. Apply with a 1/2" soft bristle brush to help maintain the details of the mold. Four thin coats is standard. Coat with at least one coat before each new firing.

kgranlin

Sunday, May 15, 2011
1 Post

I am having a problem removing old kiln wash from a mold with small ovals on it. I used my regular kiln wash (Bullseye shelf primer) - should I have used something diferrent for a small details mold? Or, should I put a fresh coat of kiln wash on after each firing, (hopefully, never having to remove it). Can anyone suggest how to do this without wrecking the mold? (It would also be difficult to clean my pot molds - how does everyone else do theirs?) Thanks for your help. K

preciouspeacock

Monday, April 18, 2011
4 Posts

Hi This is not a comment it is a question or rather a plea for help.I make fused glass pictures.Recently I have two 12" squares which have cracked across one corner one after more than a year of moving from gallery to gallery. Before fusing I soak at 555c for 1 hour then soak again at 671c for 30 mins then fuse at 780 around 10 mins then flash cool.Finally I soak at 516c for 3 hours or four and then turn off the kiln and cool.My kiln is a top loader pearl 18 clamshell firebrick. larger pieces are drilled at the edges and screwed to board. Do I need to slow down my cooling process? These works are usually no more than 8 mill thick in any place though there are different depths in them and sometimes bullseye and wasser together. Any ideas and help would be most appreciated Yours Deborah A very confused by all the annealing info I have read recently uk glass maker

earart

Sunday, April 10, 2011
2 Posts

I just purchased the double candle mold. Yesterday I fused a sheet streaky glass with a piece of clear. When this cooled, I tried to slump it onto the candle mold; the glass broke! I thought that maybe the glass was too heavy because I fused a piece of clear on top before slumping. I tried to slump using just one 3mm piece of glass over the candle mold, it broke!! What am I doing wrong???

jhaan

Wednesday, March 16, 2011
57 Posts

Try chipping the glass off with a chisel or paint scraper being careful not to chip the shelf. Wear safety glasses. Then use a 120 grit sandpaper followed with 600 grit to smooth the surface out. Avoid sanding too far. You don't want to create a divot which will trap air bubbles when firing. Re-apply kiln wash.

charitydaisy

Wednesday, March 16, 2011
5 Posts

I fired a project and the kiln wash did not work, I broke up the glass (guess I'll have some pretty frit....) but now how to I get the rest of the glass pieces off the shelf and get it cleaned up so that it can be used again? Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance :)

jhaan

Monday, January 3, 2011
57 Posts

Tiny pin pricks in the surface of the glass sound like small bubbles that have come to the surface. Adjusting your firing schedule may help. Remember that your kiln may run a little hot. This is normal and will take some use before you will know how your kiln is performing. Here is one suggestion. Try lowering the ramp temperature to 300 degrees per hour and then lowering the ending temperature to 1450 degrees. This may help to keep the bubbles from reaching the surface. Each color glass also responds diferently to heat. Ex. Black heats faster than white.

JackieBowyer

Monday, January 3, 2011
4 Posts

I recently purchased the Studio in a Box (Easy Pro 15-6 kiln) and I love it. I've made a few coasters to start getting familiar with the process. Both have turned out great except they appear to have a few very tiny "pin pricks" on the surface. I'm using the directions/firing schedule from Contemporary Fused Glass Chapter 8 with the glass provided with my kiln package. Any suggestions? Jackie

upnorthpatrice

Tuesday, December 21, 2010
1 Post

@TheDelphian I have twp platters stuck inside their stainless steel molds, will flipping the work & heating in kiln process work to release the glass?? Patrice Higgins

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