Stained Glass Basics

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Stained Glass Basics
$13.95 USD
Item# 6405
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Product Features

  • Popular step-by-step instruction book is for all skill levels
  • Begins with the basics, including tools and cutting techniques
  • Discover how easy it is to create with copper foil, overlays, and lead came
  • Then try your hand at more advanced techniques like 3D projects, lamps and more
  • Features instructions for repairs, inspirational color photos and technical tips

Product Description

This popular step-by-step instruction book is for all skill levels. It begins with the basics, including tools and cutting techniques, then moves through other topics of interest. Discover how easy it is to create with copper foil, overlays, and lead came. Then try your hand at 3D projects, lamps and more. Also includes instructions for repairs. Inspirational color photos and technical tips throughout.

Artists/Designers: Chris Rich, Marth Mitchell & Rachel Ward. Images from book.

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Pros : Very helpful for beginners. Using one of the patterns to make my first piece. We'll see how it turns out. Serveral interesting patterns in the book that I would like to try.
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Pros : This book is absolute classic. Very informative, easy to follow, clear instructions, inspirational projects.
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Other Thoughts : As the title says these are basics, yet still useful to more advanced stained glass craft person. Good as a reference book, or to use as a refresher.
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Jun 24, 2010
1. Make the glass strips as wide as youd like your mosaic chunks to be. Strips about 1/2 to 3/4 usually work well. 2. Snip small pieces off the strip. Aiming your mosaic cutter straight across the strip will produce squares and rectangles. Aiming the cutter at an angle (the same angle each time you cut) will give you diamonds. A combination of aiming straight across the strip and at alternating angles will produce triangles. 3. Once youve aimed the cutter, just squeeze the handles until a piece of glass breaks off. Or, you can snip pieces off a larger piece of glass. Cut near the edge and work towards the middle. This will produce random moon shaped pieces, which you can use to fill in small areas of background. They also make nice leaves.
Holding Small Pieces In Place While You Solder
Jun 07, 2010
1. Make sure that your pieces are clean and dry. Cut a piece of clear contact paper, remove the backing and lay it sticky-side-up over the pattern. 2. This is a perfect way to hold cut glass, globs, jewels, or marbles in place for tack soldering. As you can see in the photo, you can even move the sheet around and, if you are careful, you shouldn’t disturb the glass at all. 3. Tack solder the pieces to each other as you normally would. Then, remove the contact paper and finish soldering the front before turning the project over and soldering the back. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All rights reserved.
Regular Solder vs. Lead-Free Solder
May 05, 2010
I have some questions about Lead-Free Solder. Does it tarnish over time? Can you use patina on it? Does it flow like regular solder? Is it better than regular solder? We are sure that you arent the only one with these questions. Lets start with the question of whether or not its better than regular solder. Since the harm from lead is caused by ingestion, any project that will come in contact with food or food containers should be made with lead-free solder. In addition, anything that is handled, like jewelry or kaleidoscopes, should be made with lead-free solder. Hands have a terrible habit of making it into the mouth before they get washed. So, yes it is better than regular solder in these situations. As far as working with solder, you should be diligent about cleaning your hands after touching any solder. Dont eat, drink, smoke, or do anything
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